Mountain Project Logo

Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 456 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 5, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This relatively obscure route goes up the wall left (east) of Outside Corner. The Ruckmans give it a "Not recommended" endorsement, but it does have redeeming qualities, namely the dihedral on the upper pitches.

This route seems to have multiple variations and is sort of a choose-your-own-adventure affair. Our goal was to follow the path of least vegetation and that's what I'll describe below, though see the topo for other possible variations.

Pitch 1: Start climbing up the "cleanest" portion of the slab (about 20 feet right of the inside corner/dihedral proper) up to a small tree. Continue past it up through face climbing. The protection is relatively rare and not very good. This is a crappy, chossy pitch, though you'll love it if you like dirt mantles. Belay on a grassy ledge, using bigger cams (#2 and #3 Camalots) for the anchor. 5.6, 150'.

(Another option for the first pitch is to climb up the incredibly vegetated corner/dihedral itself. It did not look fun.)

Pitch 2: Head up and left from the belay, up a vegetated corner, aiming for the main corner/dihedral further to the left. There is some fun chimneying at the bottom of the corner proper. Sling a bomber chockstone and keep heading up the corner (the climbing is actually fun by this point). You can belay on a small stance in the corner (look for a couple old pieces of tat webbing in the dirt). 5.6, ~100'.

(Another option for pitch 2 is to head straight up from the belay on steeper terrain before cutting back to the left.)

Pitch 3: Continue up the solid, fun corner with increasing exposure. You'll pass an old ring piton en route to the top. Sling some boulders/horns at the top for the belay. 5.6, ~100'.

We were able to just barely combine pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, and I'd recommend it.

Descent: Scramble up and over some rocks to the Outside Corner topout and follow the faint trail back down to the parking area.

Location

Approach as for Outside Corner but keep going past it on the east face. Start right of the big corner proper on a clean-ish slab, aiming for a small tree about 20-30 feet off the ground.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", micro cams helpful. If combining pitches 2 and 3, consider doubles in the standard-sized cams. Lots of slings.
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The Ruckmans gave it a 5.5 rating, but it felt like solid 5.6 to us. The first and beginning of the second pitches were R-rated for us, but may not be if you take the other variations. Your mileage may vary on all of the above. The first pitch deserves a couple bomb ratings, which are somewhat offset by the exposure and fun climbing of the upper dihedral. There's a fair amount of foliage on the route, though it really only gets in the way on the first pitch and the beginning of the second.

Here's another topo of the route from SummitPost. Jun 5, 2012
MoonMountainMan
Bellingham, WA
 
MoonMountainMan   Bellingham, WA
 
The 1st pitch was really dirty and vegitated but but the 2nd and 3rd pitch (which we combined) was a lot of fun. Gear placement was plentiful on the 2nd and 3rd pitch once you get in the dihedral Jun 5, 2012

More About Inside Corner

Printer-Friendly