Avg: 1.4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||433 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Higbee on Jun 5, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis relatively obscure route goes up the wall left (east) of Outside Corner. The Ruckmans give it a "Not recommended" endorsement, but it does have redeeming qualities, namely the dihedral on the upper pitches.
This route seems to have multiple variations and is sort of a choose-your-own-adventure affair. Our goal was to follow the path of least vegetation and that's what I'll describe below, though see the topo for other possible variations.
Pitch 1: Start climbing up the "cleanest" portion of the slab (about 20 feet right of the inside corner/dihedral proper) up to a small tree. Continue past it up through face climbing. The protection is relatively rare and not very good. This is a crappy, chossy pitch, though you'll love it if you like dirt mantles. Belay on a grassy ledge, using bigger cams (#2 and #3 Camalots) for the anchor. 5.6, 150'.
(Another option for the first pitch is to climb up the incredibly vegetated corner/dihedral itself. It did not look fun.)
Pitch 2: Head up and left from the belay, up a vegetated corner, aiming for the main corner/dihedral further to the left. There is some fun chimneying at the bottom of the corner proper. Sling a bomber chockstone and keep heading up the corner (the climbing is actually fun by this point). You can belay on a small stance in the corner (look for a couple old pieces of tat webbing in the dirt). 5.6, ~100'.
(Another option for pitch 2 is to head straight up from the belay on steeper terrain before cutting back to the left.)
Pitch 3: Continue up the solid, fun corner with increasing exposure. You'll pass an old ring piton en route to the top. Sling some boulders/horns at the top for the belay. 5.6, ~100'.
We were able to just barely combine pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, and I'd recommend it.
Descent: Scramble up and over some rocks to the Outside Corner topout and follow the faint trail back down to the parking area.