Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,627 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 5, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

This relatively obscure route goes up the wall left (east) of Outside Corner. The Ruckmans give it a "Not recommended" endorsement, but it does have redeeming qualities, namely the dihedral on the upper pitches.

This route seems to have multiple variations and is sort of a choose-your-own-adventure affair. Our goal was to follow the path of least vegetation and that's what I'll describe below, though see the topo for other possible variations.

Pitch 1: Start climbing up the "cleanest" portion of the slab (about 20 feet right of the inside corner/dihedral proper) up to a small tree. Continue past it up through face climbing. The protection is relatively rare and not very good. This is a crappy, chossy pitch, though you'll love it if you like dirt mantles. Belay on a grassy ledge, using bigger cams (#2 and #3 Camalots) for the anchor. 5.6, 150'.

(Another option for the first pitch is to climb up the incredibly vegetated corner/dihedral itself. It did not look fun.)

Pitch 2: Head up and left from the belay, up a vegetated corner, aiming for the main corner/dihedral further to the left. There is some fun chimneying at the bottom of the corner proper. Sling a bomber chockstone and keep heading up the corner (the climbing is actually fun by this point). You can belay on a small stance in the corner (look for a couple old pieces of tat webbing in the dirt). 5.6, ~100'.

(Another option for pitch 2 is to head straight up from the belay on steeper terrain before cutting back to the left.)

Pitch 3: Continue up the solid, fun corner with increasing exposure. You'll pass an old ring piton en route to the top. Sling some boulders/horns at the top for the belay. 5.6, ~100'.

We were able to just barely combine pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, and I'd recommend it.

Descent: Scramble up and over some rocks to the Outside Corner topout and follow the faint trail back down to the parking area.

Location

Approach as for Outside Corner but keep going past it on the east face. Start right of the big corner proper on a clean-ish slab, aiming for a small tree about 20-30 feet off the ground.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", micro cams helpful. If combining pitches 2 and 3, consider doubles in the standard-sized cams. Lots of slings.

Photos