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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Abydos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standard Deviation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,098 total · 23/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The approach for the Second East Face is different than the trail described to the Outside Corner. Instead, park below the JHCOB Wall, then pick a line up the left side of the talus. Contour right, and aim for the lowest trees slightly to the right, and a faint trail can be found. This leads to the base (try not to cross too much scree). Don't do this approach in sandals.

P1) Climb an obvious steep hand crack for ~50 feet to a good ledge (gear anchor). 5.6

P2) Head slightly left, then fire up a thin finger crack. This runs out, and a few moves are a little runout. Finish the pitch up double cracks with a pin to the next ledge. Another gear anchor, 100 feet. 5.7

P3) Various options. A couple of pitons are visible. I found a really nice finger crack slightly to the left which was pretty sweet. Climb up through some trees, than traverse left to finish. 80 feet, 5.7

Descent) Contour left through scrub, than downclimb a short easy gully. This lands you on talus which leads back to the base.

Protection

Standard Rack. Mostly small to medium size gear.
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Fun, but not as good as Outside Corner. Apr 23, 2005
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Great Route!Can be done in 2 pitches w/60m rope. Aug 16, 2005
The middle of the 3 pitches was fantastic! Since it was only my second trad lead of the summer, I zippered it up for practice and fun. I used as small as a #00 Metolius cam to a #9 Metolius cam. Plus from #5 to #12 stopper, all on just the middle pitch...such variety; I had a splendid day. Jul 3, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
I agree with all of the comments already posted, but I would like to clarify a few things that might be helpful: park as for Narcolepsy, there is a small gully that leads to the lowest angle of scree, hike above the route's start before traversing the death scree chutes and downclimb to the start; can be climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope if you set up your belay between the three pins on the route (one below, two above on the right and left); following the pin on the right leads to a runout yet fun arete with an exposed and airy finish, while the pin on the left is easier to protect but quite vegetated. This route made my partner want to invest in a trad rack...it's about time! Aug 20, 2006
There is a thin hand crack on the second pitch that sparkles like camara flashes in the light...trippy. Oct 2, 2007
John Steiger  
 
The 3rd pitch arete variation is reminiscent of the last pitch on Steorts' Ridge, although a bit more difficult and not as exposed. It was my and my 10-year-old partner's favorite pitch. To do it, include on the rack brass/steel nuts (e.g., BD microstoppers) to protect the crux moves 5-6 feet above the pin and microcams to protect the final blocky headwall (look for horizontal placements). Also, consider not leaving your kit at the base of the route, but continuing up and over the top to the Outside Corner descent to the west (the descent suggested in the route description looks ugly). Jun 20, 2008
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
 
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
 
Great Great Route! First and Second Pitches are just wonderful ( Like low angle Goodros) and can be linked up with a long slings to reduce rope drag (keep it outta the crack).
There are slings to rap at top and second belay station. Top ones Seem sketchy. On a 60m rap from the second belay and then you can scramble climbers left and up just a bit. Enjoy, I sure did! Jun 13, 2009
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
2nd pitch is the best. The route has a great aesthetic. We used the Outside Corner walkoff. If you count the aretes from right to left (Outside Corner being the first), this climb ascends the face just to the left of the 3rd arete. May 11, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Fantastic climb with just as much variety and exposure as Outside Corner. Lacks the crowds though. The start wasn't particularly easy to find. Where we started was almost in some bent over deciduous trees, just on the other side of an extremely steep eroded section of talus. If the belay spot looks kind of terrible you're probably in the right spot.

Took a double rack from .3 to 3. Slightly overkill but the approach is easy. Could've gotten by with some singles on either end. Didn't place almost any nuts for some reason, only a couple brassies. Most of the cracks are so perfectly parallel you can't help yourself. Some wrapped boulders at the second and final belays but don't count on them, the webbing is getting worn.

Starting up the 3rd pitch is a piton directly above the tat. It helps protect the thin moves off the belay but it's wobbling a bit. Run out the final 20+ feet to the top of the arete for the finish. Ducking off left too soon on the 3rd pitch doesn't give you full value.

Walkoff isn't bad at all, just somewhat slick. Contour slightly downhill directly off the top of the climb. Don't try to downclimb the first steep gully you get to, that looks like some 4th/5th class. Continue on without dropping a lot of elevation and cross the two springs then onto the talus. May 31, 2013
cdec
SLC, UT
 
cdec   SLC, UT
 
Re-rigged the rap stations at the tops of the 2nd and 3rd pitches today. Removed lots of old webbing and left new material on good anchors. Did a bit of cleaning as this route gets little traffic but deserves more. Great climbing on beautiful rock via a nearly continuous crack system.

As mentioned approach to above the base of the route and carefully cross scree pile to the wall. There is a large Pine tree a few feet uphill from the end of the traverse. Rack up here as the rappels deposit you at the Pine tree, not at the start of the route. Descend along the rock until you can cross over to the base of the main wall via a short, super easy (6') downclimb. The route starts 10' below the downclimb.

Super fun and less Veg than previously mentioned. May 19, 2015
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
The rerigged raps are great - thanks for doing that cdec. Much more pleasant than the walk off. The third pitch crack variation out left is fantastic, not really vegetated, and maybe 5.8ish. Great underappreciated route. Jun 2, 2015
Samuel Nichols  
  5.7
This was a fun route but pretty run out on the last pitch. I climbed this in 2 pitches with a 70. Found it to be very dirty and very chossy. Be careful on the approach not to fall in the death scree or knock any boulders loose into the road. The approach on the description I didn't like, approaching from outside corner is easier. Not as much fun as OC but a great climb. Something needs to be done on the descent, it's not a good way down if we as climbers are damaging the Ancient Sea Monument. Apr 21, 2016
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.7 PG13
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.7 PG13
Not as good as Outside Corner, but definitely worth doing if you've done OC before or if someone is already on that. We climbed it with a 70m and easily linked the first 2 pitches. Protects pretty well. I placed various cams from .3-2 (took a 3 but couldn't find anywhere to put it) and plenty of nuts, including a few BD micro nuts, which were definitely nice to have. Don't pass up a gear placement on the last pitch as it's pretty run out (I also found it to have the hardest moves). Oct 7, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Forgot how good this is.

Edit:
Recommend the walk off towards the Remants sign parking. The Rap isn't remotely convenient and you have to down climb some munge if you only have a 70m.
Also the approach from Outside Corner is FAR better than the Narcolepsy way imo. But neither are ideal unfortunately.

Next one up, please bring some clippers, there's a few that need some attention. Aug 23, 2018
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
Easier climbing than outside corner with trickier (smaller) gear. All pins except one KB were bomber lost arrows and very solid. There are a handful on this climb.

If rapping keep an eye on the second rap station on pitch two. It currently consists of a cord with it's sheath totally gone tied in with a good cord and backed up by a micro nut. Because of the sharpness of the block on the back it's slowly abrading through the sheath out of the direct line of sight Aug 24, 2018

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