[Hide Comment] Fun, but not as good as Outside Corner. Apr 23, 2005

[Hide Comment] Great Route!Can be done in 2 pitches w/60m rope. Aug 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] The middle of the 3 pitches was fantastic! Since it was only my second trad lead of the summer, I zippered it up for practice and fun. I used as small as a #00 Metolius cam to a #9 Metolius cam. Plus from #5 to #12 stopper, all on just the middle pitch...such variety; I had a splendid day. Jul 3, 2006

[Hide Comment] I agree with all of the comments already posted, but I would like to clarify a few things that might be helpful: park as for Narcolepsy, there is a small gully that leads to the lowest angle of scree, hike above the route's start before traversing the death scree chutes and downclimb to the start; can be climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope if you set up your belay between the three pins on the route (one below, two above on the right and left); following the pin on the right leads to a runout yet fun arete with an exposed and airy finish, while the pin on the left is easier to protect but quite vegetated. This route made my partner want to invest in a trad rack...it's about time! Aug 20, 2006

[Hide Comment] There is a thin hand crack on the second pitch that sparkles like camara flashes in the light...trippy. Oct 2, 2007

[Hide Comment] The 3rd pitch arete variation is reminiscent of the last pitch on Steorts' Ridge, although a bit more difficult and not as exposed. It was my and my 10-year-old partner's favorite pitch. To do it, include on the rack brass/steel nuts (e.g., BD microstoppers) to protect the crux moves 5-6 feet above the pin and microcams to protect the final blocky headwall (look for horizontal placements). Also, consider not leaving your kit at the base of the route, but continuing up and over the top to the Outside Corner descent to the west (the descent suggested in the route description looks ugly). Jun 20, 2008

[Hide Comment] Great Great Route! First and Second Pitches are just wonderful ( Like low angle Goodros) and can be linked up with a long slings to reduce rope drag (keep it outta the crack).
There are slings to rap at top and second belay station. Top ones Seem sketchy. On a 60m rap from the second belay and then you can scramble climbers left and up just a bit. Enjoy, I sure did! Jun 13, 2009

[Hide Comment] 2nd pitch is the best. The route has a great aesthetic. We used the Outside Corner walkoff. If you count the aretes from right to left (Outside Corner being the first), this climb ascends the face just to the left of the 3rd arete. May 11, 2013

[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb with just as much variety and exposure as Outside Corner. Lacks the crowds though. The start wasn't particularly easy to find. Where we started was almost in some bent over deciduous trees, just on the other side of an extremely steep eroded section of talus. If the belay spot looks kind of terrible you're probably in the right spot.

Took a double rack from .3 to 3. Slightly overkill but the approach is easy. Could've gotten by with some singles on either end. Didn't place almost any nuts for some reason, only a couple brassies. Most of the cracks are so perfectly parallel you can't help yourself. Some wrapped boulders at the second and final belays but don't count on them, the webbing is getting worn.

Starting up the 3rd pitch is a piton directly above the tat. It helps protect the thin moves off the belay but it's wobbling a bit. Run out the final 20+ feet to the top of the arete for the finish. Ducking off left too soon on the 3rd pitch doesn't give you full value.

Walkoff isn't bad at all, just somewhat slick. Contour slightly downhill directly off the top of the climb. Don't try to downclimb the first steep gully you get to, that looks like some 4th/5th class. Continue on without dropping a lot of elevation and cross the two springs then onto the talus. May 31, 2013

[Hide Comment] Re-rigged the rap stations at the tops of the 2nd and 3rd pitches today. Removed lots of old webbing and left new material on good anchors. Did a bit of cleaning as this route gets little traffic but deserves more. Great climbing on beautiful rock via a nearly continuous crack system.

As mentioned approach to above the base of the route and carefully cross scree pile to the wall. There is a large Pine tree a few feet uphill from the end of the traverse. Rack up here as the rappels deposit you at the Pine tree, not at the start of the route. Descend along the rock until you can cross over to the base of the main wall via a short, super easy (6') downclimb. The route starts 10' below the downclimb.

Super fun and less Veg than previously mentioned. May 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] The rerigged raps are great - thanks for doing that cdec. Much more pleasant than the walk off. The third pitch crack variation out left is fantastic, not really vegetated, and maybe 5.8ish. Great underappreciated route. Jun 2, 2015

[Hide Comment] This was a fun route but pretty run out on the last pitch. I climbed this in 2 pitches with a 70. Found it to be very dirty and very chossy. Be careful on the approach not to fall in the death scree or knock any boulders loose into the road. The approach on the description I didn't like, approaching from outside corner is easier. Not as much fun as OC but a great climb. Something needs to be done on the descent, it's not a good way down if we as climbers are damaging the Ancient Sea Monument. Apr 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] Not as good as Outside Corner, but definitely worth doing if you've done OC before or if someone is already on that. We climbed it with a 70m and easily linked the first 2 pitches. Protects pretty well. I placed various cams from .3-2 (took a 3 but couldn't find anywhere to put it) and plenty of nuts, including a few BD micro nuts, which were definitely nice to have. Don't pass up a gear placement on the last pitch as it's pretty run out (I also found it to have the hardest moves). Oct 7, 2017

[Hide Comment] Forgot how good this is.

Edit:
Recommend the walk off towards the Remants sign parking.
Next one up, please bring some clippers, there's a few that need some attention. Aug 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] Easier climbing than outside corner with trickier (smaller) gear. All pins except one KB were bomber lost arrows and very solid. There are a handful on this climb.

If rapping keep an eye on the second rap station on pitch two. It currently consists of a cord with it's sheath totally gone tied in with a good cord and backed up by a micro nut. Because of the sharpness of the block on the back it's slowly abrading through the sheath out of the direct line of sight Aug 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] Did it in two pitches. Ended up wandering quite a bit, and even with runners had some rope drag going by the time I reached the 3rd pitch belay. Up at the top of what would otherwise be pitch 2of3, there are really good bolted anchors to belay off of.

The pieces are pretty niche, but if you have them, bring along your Ballnutz (in place of any applicable micro-stoppers) and Tricams (for horizontal placements). I ended up placing at least a few of each on both pitches, which was pretty cool Jun 7, 2022

[Hide Comment] This route has been done since the 1960's without the bolted belay anchors....they shouldn't be there. Jun 5, 2023