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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Vince Romney 2004 (pitch 1) Romney, Calderone (pitches 2, 3)
Page Views: 162 total, 1/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Oct 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route shares the start of Unemployment Line, about 20' left of Osiris and ascends 120' up the blocky corners on the sides of the multiple roofs to a lone cedar tree. There are still some loose areas, and thus helmets should be considered mandatory until it cleans up. I really liked the aesthetics of this climb, particularly as I moved past the roofs. It was steep and exposed, with positive moves throughout with the occasional thin move thrown in. It required a good lead head, but was a lot of fun.

A reasonable facsimile of a belay stance can be fashioned from the two-trunk tree at the base of a dirty groove at the bottom of Unemployment Line. The leader starts about 10' upslope from the belay where a short left-angling crack leads to a dirt stance about 15' above the belay. At the stance, you may want to flip the rope over the trees to reduce potential rope drag, but this does require your second to climb the dirty groove to attain the stance. From the stance, move up through the first two bolts of Unemployment Line (use long runners to avoid rope drag). Prior to the third bolt of "Unemployment Line" (don't clip, as the rope drag is stunning if you do) move right to the seam/crack that moves up the right side of the next two roofs. After the second roof, move up and left of the third roof. Then continue up to the right of the next roof, and to the left of the final roof. Once on top, angle left to the lone tree atop the formation, and belay. "Rappel from the rappel ring on the three rounds of 9 mil rope around the tree using two 60 meter ropes, orcontinue on to pitch two.

Pitch two (5.5) follows the left slanting ramp atop thepillar of pitch one to a smooth shield on the right(50'). Ascend the shield and then move up and left to the top of a largepillar and set up a trad belay (100').

Pitch three (5.6) moves horizontally right from the belay,around the base of a large block via a horizontal handcrack (40'). At the right edge of the block, movestraight up, following the major weaknesses to an exitvia a delicate high-step, and belay from the obvioushorn (80'). Walk off the descent trail to the right."

Protection

Quickdraws for the first two bolts of Unemployment Line, and then use everything from micro-nuts to a #3 Camalot for the rest of the route. There are a few runout sections where pro is not available.
Vince Romney
  5.9
Vince Romney  
  5.9
Now that I've done this a couple times, I think I was a bit mellow on the rating. There are definitely some 5.9 moves on this, and it requires some good focus and placement skill on the part of the leader. That being said, I also like the climb alot more now, and am giving it two stars. We cleaned a lot of the "Funk" out this last trip, and it will only get better. A few more trips, some chains at the top, and it will be a fun, solid 5.9 trad climb. Jun 20, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Spastic Funk, oh what a name, but aptly so. This line isn't quite as runout as Vince thought; however, with that said, the protection IS tricky to find, and sometimes consisting of shaky placements. I did enjoy this lead (I had promised Vince to do this since he FA'd it). As Vince says, there are loose sections and we almost killed him with a plate-sized flake, so wear your helmets (belayers for sure), and test your holds. This line will clean up, and the moves are exciting over the roofs. Not a lead for a 5.9 leader. Oh, and finally, I didn't have a need for the brass, but red and yellow Metolius were integral. Jun 20, 2005
Bravo, to the FA'ists. Climbed this yesterday. A creative new line, and NO NEW BOLTS. Turning the roofs is fun as heck! Nice eye mr. Romney, keep the clean new lines coming!! May 24, 2005