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Routes in Sundial

11th hour 3rd pitch variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eleven-Thirty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eleventh Hour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Bologna WI4 M3-4
Sundial Falls WI3
Elevation: 9,427 ft
GPS: 40.601, -111.689 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 21,432 total, 133/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 25, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq


The Sundial is a stunning alpine peak overlooking Lake Blanche, 3 miles and 3000 vertical feet up the Mill-B South trail from the S-Curves in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Routes on the North Face to Northwest Arete are about 500 feet long, and can be done in 3 - 5 pitches, ending at over 10000 feet in elevation. Stunning views of the upper cirques of the Mill B drainage and the central Wasatch Crest, from Twin Peaks to Mt. Superior beckon. As the long line of cars parked on the road any weekend afternoon attests, this trail is popular with hikers, for good reason. The views alone make the hike in worthwhile, while an ascent of the Sundial is the icing on the cake. A 60 meter rope allows you to combine pitches, but is not mandatory. To descend from the top of the climbing routes on the Sundial, scramble up over boulders and piles of slate to the South, towards the true summit, and then angle down to the left (east), towards some pine trees. 3 single rope rappels from sturdy pines will get you to the scree on the northeast side. A 60 meter rope will not make it in 2 raps.

Getting There

Park at the Mill B South trailhead, on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, at the start of the S-Curves, about 4.5 miles from the park and ride. Follow the mostly well maintained trail 3 miles to Lake Blanche, skirt the lake to the East, and scramble up boulders to the Sundial. Allow about 2 1/2 hours to reach the Sundial. Car to car, we had a 10 hour day.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sundial

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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SLC, Utah
Mulch   SLC, Utah
Climbed sundial yesterday and took a huge 30+ ft fall onto a ledge after my last piece of pro ripped out of the wall. Luckily the piece below held and prevented me from falling further down the mountain. Severely bruised my right leg and think I may have broken a rib on my left side. My buddies immediately sprang into action to get us all down the mountain. We thought we were climbing Eleventh hour and thought the 3rd pitch ascended the west face to the right of the huge corner. That pitch landed us on the crux pitch of afternoon delight (looking on mountain project today confirmed that).I pulled the roof and got up to the crimps above where the gear was sparse and took the fall. In the midst of all the chaos I had to leave a good amount of gear. One #0 dmm dragon cam with an alpine draw, one blue dmm offset with an alpine draw, and above the roof pull I left one #2 dmm dragon cam half way nudged in a crack. Knowing that I'm going to be out of commission for a little, if anyone is climbing that section of sundial and is willing to retrieve my gear for me it would seriously be greatly appreciated. Jun 18, 2017

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