Elevation: 9,427 ft
GPS: 40.601, -111.689 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,398 total · 155/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 25, 2004 with updates from Mulch
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

The Sundial is a stunning alpine peak overlooking Lake Blanche, 3 miles and 3000 vertical feet up the Mill-B South trail from the S-Curves in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Routes on the North Face to Northwest Arete are about 500 feet long, and can be done in 3 - 5 pitches, ending at over 10000 feet in elevation. Stunning views of the upper cirques of the Mill B drainage and the central Wasatch Crest, from Twin Peaks to Mt. Superior beckon. As the long line of cars parked on the road any weekend afternoon attests, this trail is popular with hikers, for good reason. The views alone make the hike in worthwhile, while an ascent of the Sundial is the icing on the cake. A 60 meter rope allows you to combine pitches, but is not mandatory. To descend from the top of the climbing routes on the Sundial, scramble up over boulders and piles of slate to the South, towards the true summit, and then angle down to the left (east), towards some pine trees. 3 single rope rappels from sturdy pines will get you to the scree on the northeast side. A 60 meter rope will not make it in 2 raps.

Getting There

Park at the Mill B South trailhead, on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, at the start of the S-Curves, about 4.5 miles from the park and ride. Follow the mostly well maintained trail 3 miles to Lake Blanche, skirt the lake to the East, and scramble up boulders to the Sundial. Allow about 2 1/2 hours to reach the Sundial. Car to car, we had a 10 hour day.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sundial

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 14
Sundial Falls
Ice
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 146
Eleventh Hour
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
11th hour 3rd pitch variation
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sundial Falls
 14
WI3 Ice
Eleventh Hour
 146
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
11th hour 3rd pitch variation
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
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