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Routes in Sundial

11th hour 3rd pitch variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eleven-Thirty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eleventh Hour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Bologna WI4 M3-4
Sundial Falls WI3
Type: Trad, 165 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown?
Page Views: 384 total · 20/month
Shared By: justa beater on Jul 6, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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From the belay ledge after the corner pitch traverse left for about 15 feet, you can put pro in at the first crack and continue to the next. Climb this second crack with great finger locks and hand jambs for about 30 to 40 feet. You'll come to a roof with a fixed u stem cam, which I clipped wit a double shoulder sling. After clipping this or setting your own cam go left under and around the overhang. Another 10 feet or so of climbing brings you to the crux roof, great gear here with long runners and terrific exposure, clip your piece look down and smile at the exposure, then fire the roof, kinda awkward but fun. Over the roof the crack continues to a stance and gear you can go left in the same crack or right to another crack, left didn't look as fun. Work up to a ledge with lots of spots for pro along the way. The ledge is dirty and covered in shale. Figure out how to pull it walk 10 feet and continue up another crux short slab section to a slot that places you on the top. Be very careful about loose stuff from the ledge to the top. Bring long slings or the rope drag will suck!


On the sundial formation, last pitch go left toward the big roof.


Standard, same as 11th hour



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