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Routes in Sundial

11th hour 3rd pitch variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eleven-Thirty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eleventh Hour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Bologna WI4 M3-4
Sundial Falls WI3
Type: Ice, 130 ft, Grade II
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,932 total, 39/month
Shared By: Sam Cannon on Nov 21, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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A steppy flow of decent length that offers a short vertical column that would be the crux if you choose to climb it, but this can be avoided in favor of a bulge/ramp to its right that is lower angle that leads up to another short bulge. We did this route late November of 2013 and the ice was thick enough for good screw placements.


To the right of Sundial is a waterfall that freezes in winter. This is your destination. The ice is obvious from Lake Blanche. We traveled around the left side of the lake to avoid bushwhacking, coming up to below the start to "Eleventh Hour" and traversing over to the base of the falls, but encountered deep pockets of snow in the boulderfield that may have been avoided traversing around the right side of the lake and coming up to the flow from directly beneath it. Use your own judgment.

The approach took about 3 hrs, including some significant snow slogging. Your mileage may vary based on current snow levels/conditions. Many will likely find the amount of climbing to not be worth the approach; however, Lake Blanche/Sundial is breathtaking in the winter and the hike in is justified by the views alone. Also, at least this year (2013), this route is one of the earlier flows to have formed up.


Ice screws, stubbies to mid-length. 4 to sew it up, though competent climbers will probably be free-soloing or only placing 1 or 2 screws. Didn't really see any possibilities for rock pro. If you continue up a small gully above the top of the flow of ice you can drop into a small ledge on your left that has a good tree to belay your second off of.

The climb can be done with a 60m rope, though doubles or a tag line are needed for the rap (look for fresh tat on a tree to the right as you're facing down the climb).
Brett Verhoef
Northern Utah
Brett Verhoef   Northern Utah
Rappel can be done with one 60 m rope by rappeling to a tree far to the climber's left and then making a second rappel to the base. Nov 21, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
5/4/15 - PAGE EDIT: Name changed from "Frozen In Time" (my creation for lack of a better/established name) to "Sundial Falls" to reflect the new UT Ice Guidebook (thanks Nathan Smith!). May 4, 2015
Brett Verhoef
Northern Utah
Brett Verhoef   Northern Utah
Traversing the boulder field below Eleventh Hour on the north slope of Sundial was time consuming. When I make the trek again I plan on going around Lake Blanche to the west and approaching the climb more directly. That would require more distance but would probably be easier.
Edit: Approaching from west of Lake Blanche to below the falls was definitely easier. Dec 6, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Route requires two 60m ropes to rap. Tat on live tree off on the left. Nov 21, 2013