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Routes in Sundial

11th hour 3rd pitch variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eleven-Thirty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eleventh Hour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Bologna WI4 M3-4
Sundial Falls WI3
Type: Mixed, Ice, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brett Verhoef, Jeff Boney, and Amber Boney
Page Views: 290 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brett Verhoef on Aug 15, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The first pseudo-pitch is below the ice to the right, up steep snow inside a tight gully with a couple of mixed moves around a boulder that chokes the line. The pitch ends under the obvious roof. You may be able to get small rock pro in the roof for your belay. The actual ice pitch follows the obvious pillar straight up for 35 feet and turns into easy ice/snow up to trees above.

We then belayed the traverse up and around to the climber's right to much larger trees, where we rappelled back down to the belay station under the roof. I suggest two ropes so you can rappel all the way to the base.

The climb does not seem to touch down very often. We climbed it in Feb 2016 during a good snow year. Be weary of wet slides from the slopes above. After rappelling to below the roof, the slope above slid and would have wiped us out if we were still on rappel.

Location

On the approach hike toward Sundial and Lake Blanche, just before the final steep climb to the lake, the route is about 100 feet up to your left (East) in the cliffs.

Protection

Screws, webbing for anchoring off trees.

Photos

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