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Routes in Lonely Challenge Area

Broken Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eddy of Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Flow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gnawing on the Rind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lone Man Running T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Notch Arête, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Potato Chip, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubbing it Raw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slab, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Watermelon Tetris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zen and the Art T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brent Barghahn and Ally Lamb 7/2016
Page Views: 1,422 total · 79/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Jul 31, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1:
10a, 6 bolts
Crimp and high step your way through multiple blank sections, gaining an easier juggy portion in the middle. Finish up with steep moves between good holds and a right arete as the wall kicks back. Walk left on the comfy ledge for two bolt and chains.

Pitch 2:
10c, 9 bolts
Step left from the anchor to the corner, then climb the rippled dike features on the smooth wall. Technical crimping and edging leads to a cryptic sequence through the triangle shaped merging overlaps. Easy terrain gives last reprieve prior to the sustained traverse involving hands free high stepping and smearing smooth milky ripples. At the roof, off balance undercling and layback holds swing one around to a final desperate stab for secure finger locks. All too short glory laybacking finishes out the pitch with equally fantastic exposure over the storm mountain area. Belay sitting on the edge at two bolts and chains.

Decent:
Two rappels with a 60m. Rap straight down from the pitch two anchor to the anchor and chains on Broken Dreams (hidden under a roof, perfect plumb line while rappelling). One more gets you to the ground. Alternatively, one can rap the route itself. When rapping the first pitch, head climbers right over the clean edge to avoid loose rock straight below the anchor.

Location

Eternal Flow is the fully bolted line 100ft down hill from the large gully chockstone. The 5.5 scramble mentioned in the area page is not needed to get to this line. This line is left of Watermelon Tetris, another fully bolted line.

Coming up the main talus slope stay RIGHT in the larger and more consolidated talus, AVOIDING obvious worn switchbacks in the middle (slippery and sketchy scree). About halfway up the slope there is a large pine that you can go around on its right. Switchbacks marked with cairns and logs start here and continue up to the wall. Belay is a flattened stance. 20 minutes.

Sunny in the morning, full shade starts early afternoon. The narrow gully stays cool.

Protection

9 quickdraws, fully bolted

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great job on this - loved it! Such beautiful rock on that 2nd pitch - may it never see tick marks! Jul 27, 2017
John Steiger
  5.10c
John Steiger  
  5.10c
Stunning find – how’d all the rest of us miss this for so many years? Some of the best rock in BCC, and cool name. There were three parties on it last Saturday! Probably the most people this sector has seen in one day ever. Brent and Ally, give us more. Jul 4, 2017
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Just about as good as any route of the grade in BCC, very fun and engaging to find the sequences. Rather than hike straight up the talus/scree gully do the approach to Talk and cut through the notch. A short traverse from there gets you to stable terrain nearly at the base. May 30, 2017
kellyshaheen
  5.10c
kellyshaheen  
  5.10c
Super fun route. 2 60M ropes will get you to the bottom in one single rappel. May 17, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
An excellent addition to the crag, very much in line with the style of climbing up there, one of my favorite new routes to go up in BCC in some time!
P1 is thin and tricky with a lot of small edges, there's still a bit of dirt and moss around but the amount of cleaning that went into the route is obvious on that pitch (and the ledge). Nice work keeping the bolts spaced out, appropriately old school!
P2 has immaculate rock and awesome movement, solid edges keep appearing whenever the climbing is about to get hard. It traverses a lot more than the pics suggest and some of the bolts felt a bit low; they're clipped from logical stances though so it all works out. I almost wish the 2nd half was on gear, those horizontals make for perfect placements.
Overall I didn't think P2 was significantly harder than P1 (thinner but lower angle) and maybe a tad soft for 10c when compared to other thin faces in the area.
Solid work finding and cleaning this gem, hopefully there are more to come! How about straight up the ripple to the right and through the gut of the roof?? Sep 1, 2016
ryguy
 
ryguy  
 
Great route on great rock. Sustained,technical and good position that keeps you on your toes. Don't let the approach gully scare you. Might even deserve 4 stars Aug 13, 2016