Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lonely Challenge Area

Broken Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eddy of Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Flow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gnawing on the Rind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Man Running T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Notch ArĂȘte, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Potato Chip, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubbing it Raw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slab, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Watermelon Tetris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zen and the Art T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, 1995
Page Views: 237 total · 2/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch 1: Gingerly make your way up the blocky face to a lone bolt about 30' up, then climb straight up toward a ledge (below a roof) passing the occasional placement. The rock is a lot more solid than it looks but quite slippery due to a layer of lichen. It's probably a good idea to test holds before yarding on them as you're usually a long ways above your gear. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a spacious ledge.

Pitch 2: Head out left on a brushy ledge to gain a broken crack system (the book shows another variation right) and follow it as it diagonals up and right towards the top of the buttress. Beware of a lot of very loose rock, especially when you traverse back over your belayer.
Build a trad belay in the great cracks that split the low angle ridge up top.

Location

The route is located about 100' before the chokestone on the lower section of the Lonely Challenge Wall. Look for a single bolt about 30' up a blocky mossy looking face.

The standard descent is apparently on the Rush Wall side (west face of Standard Ridge). We followed the wide low angle ridge up to a cleft where it looked possible to downclimb to the base of the Rush Wall and from there walk back across the gap to the packs (bring hiking shoes).

Instead we kept going along the Standard Ridge route and reached the bolted anchors for the upper routes of Lonely Challenge.
A 70m barely makes it to the base of the bolted lines and it's then possible to downclimb the chokestone or scramble around it on some dirty ledges. Two ropes would allow you to rap to the base of the chokestone, avoiding some scary billygoating.Italic Text

Protection

Standard rack up to a #3.
Don't bother bringing anything big on the 1st pitch, besides the bolt it takes mostly micro cams.
Small to hand-size cams for the cracks on the second pitch and keep a #2 and a #3 for the belay.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Broken Dreams

Printer-Friendly