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Routes in Lonely Challenge Area

Broken Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eddy of Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Flow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gnawing on the Rind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lone Man Running T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Notch ArĂȘte, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Potato Chip, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubbing it Raw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slab, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Watermelon Tetris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zen and the Art T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bret & Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 1,056 total, 10/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Featuring amazing thin-face climbing on smooth quartzite, this route will keep you on your toes through 70' of bolt-protected edging and smearing followed by 40' of runout 5.8.

The climbing is sustained .10 until the 4th bolt where the .10d crux awaits and will send you wandering around for a while, trying to piece together a line of tiny edges and tenuous smears.
The odd horizontal crack provides a much needed rest as you make your way to the piton then angle right and launch up the exciting upper face.

The climbing eases up to 5.8ish but will keep your attention due to its runout nature; the route will attempt to thwart you one last time with a roof before you can top out one of the best 110' chunk of stone out there...

Location

The left bolt line, situated at the head of the fern-filled gully above the chokestone. There's a nice flat boulder to belay at the base which saves you from standing around in stinging nettle. The route can be framed by two seeps after heavy rainfall. You can get by without getting wet.

You can make it down this route with a 70m. The rope runs over sharp edges so you might want to rappel instead of being lowered.
The slings on the anchor are in acceptable condition.

Careful in the gully, there are lots of loose rocks held together by soft dirt and everything you kick will roll a ways down...

Protection

4 bolts and a piton on the lower face.
The 4th (crux) bolt is a 1/4" spinner and not too confidence inspiring, especially considering the amount of ground you need to cover to get to the piton. A crack to the left will eat a large nut to protect the touchy moves above the crux. After the pin it's a long ways to the next opportunity for gear.
Micros, small nuts and a #2 will help you keep it together on your way to the 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
There is a belay bolt at the flat rock below this one with a fixed line dropping down past the chockstone. Useful for the approach and setting up a belay, and a life saver to rap the line down the loose slope on the way out. Jul 30, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Heh. I deserve that. May 18, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
Cool story bro May 18, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Foolishly I led this bitd without any gear thinking it was a sport route. I somehow didn't find the piton and placed exactly 1 piece in the remaining 50-60 feet: a knotted cord ala German style. Pretty sure it would of held a fall.

Pretty sure. May 17, 2017
Ryan Arnold
  5.10d PG13
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10d PG13
Two cruxes between 4th bolt and pin. Above pin, be ready for 30 foot 5.7 runouts on mossy and dirty rock. Oct 31, 2014