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Routes in Red Rock Wall

Baked Bean Sandwich S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Burnt Cheese S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Tell Paul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God's WeedWacker S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jen's French Kiss S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
No Recess S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reasoning With The Unreasonable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Reverend Hilti's Bosch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Snowblower S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Woody Woodpecker S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Elevation: 7,850 ft
GPS: 40.654, -111.653 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,859 total, 137/month
Shared By: Luke Douglas on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This scenic wall in Big Cottonwood Canyon offers sport climbing on red limestone edges. It has spectacular views up Mineral Fork, looking at the back of Mt. Superior and the Superior ridge line. It faces south, so it is very nice during the Spring and Fall months. You are more likely to see hawks and elk than people here.

As always wear your helmet!

Getting There

Park at the overflow for winter parking at the "Doughnut Falls" area.(This is where everyone sleds in the winter.) Walk back downcanyon, crossing the road to a thick group of pines on the north side of the canyon road. After passing a small red and white checked highway sign you will see the start of the trail (about 75 yards from parking). Pay attention to stay on the trail through the pine trees as there are many game trails that switch back and forth over the trail. Be sure to exit the first big talus field on the left part way up. Handlines are fixed at the perpetually loose steep bits. Hike with your head up or you will get off trail.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Rock Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

High
 
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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
Hornets (even in October)!! No trouble besides them occupying good pockets. Curious little buggars, they'd stare right at you for a few seconds before flying at your face and away. This happened probably a dozen times (between 3 routes), but they never stung. Be mindful and they won't get ya. Oct 26, 2016
Mikeehale's picture is the key.
It is located about 40 yds up the first scree slope you encounter on the hike up. It is about 20 feet to the left of the biggest boulder in the scree slope.

If you miss this turn off your day will be more strenuous. Oct 7, 2015
APPROACH INFO:

The red/white sign referenced in other comments is only about 4 feet off of the ground and about 8" X 8" so be sure to watch for it on the north side of the road.

Also, once you find the trail and head up it watch for Cairns its very easy to head off on game trails. We should all probably build some more on our way out.

Lastly and most importantly, once the trail hits the scree area hang to the left and watch for TWO CAIRNS.. the trail is directly between the two. The trail gets thinner and thinner but hang to the left and eventually you'll come across old climbing ropes that have been tied onto shrubs in an effort to make the approach a little easier.

Sincerely hope this helps!
Oct 5, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
Garrett C   SL,UT
Amazing wall, great exposure. Had a little trouble finding the trail tho. When you reach the talus field with some rock cairns, follow them up north a short way and you'll see some rock cairns on the west side of the talus field by a tree (followed Broseph's advice and we still missed em and continued up - HUGE MISTAKE). The cairns mark a dirt trail you follow west and north a bit more leading to another talus field. Go up and stay on the east side of the talus field to find the dirt trail again and continue up until you see fixed ropes and rebar. If you are bushwacking you are doing something wrong, there is a trail! Steep and gets full sun, but this wall is definitely worth it. Bring a helmet there was a lot of loose rock still. No holds broke on us however. Thanks for taking the time to bolt this great wall. Aug 18, 2013
Doesn’t look like much, but this crag has great limestone, better than Hellgate. Steep but easy approach – Reasoning, No Recess, and Satan’s Snowblower, not to mention some of the best views BCC has to offer, are all well worth the walk. The routes go quickly, so there’s plenty of time for an après-climb Epic IPA or Stout at Silver Fork Lodge just up the road. Sep 3, 2012
Trail is ez to follow, while also weeding out the slackers. we spent all day on the rock with the wall all to ourselves. just be sure to check hands as a few holds busted off Jul 10, 2012
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
IMPORTANT: Do not head up the talus field, go uphill and down canyon to cross it, to the continuation of the trail; there will be rock carins. If you go straight up then get prepared to hate life and do a shload of bushwhacking, with no fixed ropes to save you. Jul 4, 2012
Big props to everyone who put all the work into this area. The trail was surprisingly well prepared (the fixed lines are a nice touch), the bolting is superb, and the view into Cardiff is amazing. My only (minor) complaint was the amount of loose rock so make sure to take your helmet, but this is to be expected on a relatively new crag. Jul 9, 2011
If you stay on the trail there is no bush wacking, anywhere. There are even ropes attached to help through the loose sections at the top.
Read the getting there section above. Sep 23, 2010
fun climbing at this wall, the approach would'nt be too bad if some trail work was done towards the top, expect some thick bush wacking 20-30min... bring a 70m rope Sep 21, 2010
This area has biting ants and flies, vipers, bats, rabid giant squirrel's, horrid trails, and chossy climbing.In general this place sucks sweaty balls, don't go! Jun 6, 2010
Access to this area needs to improve. Found the trail to be steep and eroding, having too short of switch-backs that blaze straight up. Jun 5, 2010
zoso  
The trail is SWEEEETTTT! Nice work on that. 20 min approach for me without rests. Rope, rebar, and switches? Nice work. Thanks. Jul 3, 2008
Thanks....didn't do much "happy" bushwhacking. Our best views were of Cardiff Fork. Are you sure you could see Mineral Fork? Fun area which I am sure Edwards and Anderson now wish they had done more routes up there! We didn't find the rapping tricky at all even with just one rope. Good job on the anchors. Nov 16, 2007
You guys are probably already aware that there already is an area called Red Rock in the Wasatch....just thought I'd run it by you. Might prove confusing.
How long (minutes or distance) is the approach?
Can you get by with a 50m rope? a 60m rope? or does one need two ropes for routes like NO Recess?
Thanks Nov 16, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
you boys sure are busy...don't you live in the other canyon?
thanks for doing it right
i wonder how long its gonna take...never mind...we'll just see.
again...kudos Nov 14, 2007
Thanks for sharing guys! This looks like it might be also be nice during a wintertime inversion. I hear there was monumental cleaning and equipping involved. And a killer trail to a nice moderate sport area. Nov 14, 2007

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