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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

This out-of-the-way climbing secret is usually empty, mostly because the approach is a real pain in the ass. The talus slope that you climb is steep, slippery and sucks out loud. But the payoff is worth the approach effort, I promise.

The rock is awesome, and shaded most of the time. Lots of variety in holds, from thin cracks to chicken heads. Most routes are sport, but some require additional trad assists. Most of the climbs rap, and are safe with a 60 meter rope, but there are a few walk offs, too.

This wall is high enough that occasionally there are mountain goats sharing the neighboring walls (how cool is that?). The view from there is really among of the best in BCC.

Getting There

Park across from Storm Mountain Picnic Area, about 2.7 miles up the canyon. Climb up the trail on the east side of the stream and walk about 1/4 mile. Then start looking for trails across the valley/stream to the Dead Snag Area. Head up the talus slope uphill from Dead Snag. Its quite a hump, and a real pain in - wait - I said that already...Keep going about another 200 yards or so. Glass Ocean is on the west side of the canyon facing northeast.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Glass Ocean and Environs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 154
Glass Ocean
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 104
High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Tsunami
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 49
Northwest Passage
Trad, TR 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glass Ocean
 154
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
High Dive
 104
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tsunami
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Northwest Passage
 49
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Glass Ocean and Environs »

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Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Another way to get there is to park at Stairs Gulch (just below Storm Mtn Picnic Area), and scramble up the bank on the west side of the stream. Then follow the trail past Challenge, Dead Snag and onward to Glass Ocean up the talus slope. This avoids the bushwhacking through the stream. Jun 15, 2004
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
great quite cool place in the shade around 1. bring your edging shoes. Jun 28, 2008
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Went up to Glass Ocean three days ago. The approach seems better than it used to, not nearly as bad as this description sounds. There is now a decent switchback that finishes to the right of the wall, avoiding what used to be talus near the top. Jul 29, 2008

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