Elevation: 5,822 ft
GPS: 40.621, -111.747 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,120 total · 133/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall, with steep and smooth quartzite.

Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.

Aerial photo here.

Getting There

Just past JHCOB Wall, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.

Two approaches exist:

  • Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.
  • Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Narcolepsy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 114
● Narcolepsy
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
● Don't Jump Back Crack
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 103
● Dreamscape
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
● Chimney Sweep
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 110
● Dream Slate
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
● Involuntary Release
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
● Mr. Sandman
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
● Up A Cliff Without a Ladder
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Narcolepsy
 114
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
● Don't Jump Back Crack
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Dreamscape
 103
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
● Chimney Sweep
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Dream Slate
 110
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Involuntary Release
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Mr. Sandman
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Up A Cliff Without a Ladder
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Narcolepsy Area »

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whipping off the 11
whipping off the 11
 3
Narcolepsy area
Narcolepsy area
 1
narcolepsy IIRC
narcolepsy IIRC
 1

3 Comments

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utfreeclimber
Sandy, UT
utfreeclimber   Sandy, UT
I climbed at the Narcolepsy area my first time the other day and I must say that the bolting here should become a standard. The bolts protect the cruxes of the routes really well, props to the FA's for reading the rock well and creating safe, exciting runouts. Runouts are brainfood for climbers. Nov 6, 2006
Matt Simon
Boulder, CO
Matt Simon   Boulder, CO
a lot of these routes are listed as "TR." Are they situated such that someone could set up a TR from the top for rope-soloing purposes? Apr 24, 2018
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
Matt - Yes, the anchors for Narcolepsy, Dreamscape, and Involuntary Release are easily accessible (I've TR soloed these). With the newer anchors above Anuresis and Don't Jump Back crack, those appear to be easily accessed as well. I think you could set up a TR on the harder routes (Up a Cliff/Sandman), but you need to be a bit careful approaching those anchors. Probably should build a gear anchor, then "rap" down to the bolted anchors. That way you don't accidentally go over the edge. Apr 24, 2018