All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Narcolepsy Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Narcolepsy Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chimney Sweep T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dream Slate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	5,822 ft
GPS:	40.621, -111.747 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	39,582 total · 186/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

Description

A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall, with steep and smooth quartzite.

Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.

Aerial photo here.

Getting There

Just past JHCOB Wall, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.

Two approaches exist:

Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.
Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Narcolepsy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 138 ● Narcolepsy Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 40 ● Don't Jump Back Crack Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 131 ● Dreamscape Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 26 ● Chimney Sweep Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 131 ● Dream Slate Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 56 ● Involuntary Release Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 72 ● Mr. Sandman Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 52 ● Up A Cliff Without a Ladder Trad, TR