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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall, with steep and smooth quartzite.

Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.

Aerial photo here.

Getting There

Just past JHCOB Wall, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.

Two approaches exist:

  • Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.
  • Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Narcolepsy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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utfreeclimber
Sandy, UT
utfreeclimber   Sandy, UT
I climbed at the Narcolepsy area my first time the other day and I must say that the bolting here should become a standard. The bolts protect the cruxes of the routes really well, props to the FA's for reading the rock well and creating safe, exciting runouts. Runouts are brainfood for climbers. Nov 6, 2006
Matt Simon
Boulder, CO
Matt Simon   Boulder, CO
a lot of these routes are listed as "TR." Are they situated such that someone could set up a TR from the top for rope-soloing purposes? Apr 24, 2018
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
Matt - Yes, the anchors for Narcolepsy, Dreamscape, and Involuntary Release are easily accessible (I've TR soloed these). With the newer anchors above Anuresis and Don't Jump Back crack, those appear to be easily accessed as well. I think you could set up a TR on the harder routes (Up a Cliff/Sandman), but you need to be a bit careful approaching those anchors. Probably should build a gear anchor, then "rap" down to the bolted anchors. That way you don't accidentally go over the edge. Apr 24, 2018

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