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Routes in Narcolepsy Area
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Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dream Slate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dreamscape S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Sandman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Narcolepsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Narcosis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,024 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
This is the crack system left of Dream Slate, that works left of the flake that you put an SLCD in for Dream Slate. It works through a slot in the roof layer and then angles right, past a tree and finishes within arm's reach of the chains.
The pre-roof crack is fun, just a bit dirty, but fun, and it protects well. The roof is also fun (not 5.9), but fun. I felt like 5.8. Above the roof, it gets dirty, rotten, easy, and almost no gear. Worth one ascent, no more, no less.
The pre-roof crack is fun, just a bit dirty, but fun, and it protects well. The roof is also fun (not 5.9), but fun. I felt like 5.8. Above the roof, it gets dirty, rotten, easy, and almost no gear. Worth one ascent, no more, no less.
Protection
You can share Dream Slate's anchors. The gear for the route is standard. I used my #4 DMM, and mainly medium to large gear, but above the roof was bad placements, and all I got was a #2 Camalot (directly above the roof), and a BD micro-stopper above the tree.
Also, there are two souvenirs waiting to be fallen on: an old fixed ring and an angle that flexed when I touced it, both right below the roof.
Also, there are two souvenirs waiting to be fallen on: an old fixed ring and an angle that flexed when I touced it, both right below the roof.
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