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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,056 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 30, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the crack system left of Dream Slate, that works left of the flake that you put an SLCD in for Dream Slate. It works through a slot in the roof layer and then angles right, past a tree and finishes within arm's reach of the chains.

The pre-roof crack is fun, just a bit dirty, but fun, and it protects well. The roof is also fun (not 5.9), but fun. I felt like 5.8. Above the roof, it gets dirty, rotten, easy, and almost no gear. Worth one ascent, no more, no less.

Protection

You can share Dream Slate's anchors. The gear for the route is standard. I used my #4 DMM, and mainly medium to large gear, but above the roof was bad placements, and all I got was a #2 Camalot (directly above the roof), and a BD micro-stopper above the tree.

Also, there are two souvenirs waiting to be fallen on: an old fixed ring and an angle that flexed when I touced it, both right below the roof.

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Mulch
SLC, Utah
  5.8
Mulch   SLC, Utah
  5.8
No way this route is a 5.9. The entire route has juggy solid holds all over it. The last cracks protect very well. 5.8 G May 18, 2017