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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mark Sargent, Mike Kurlich 1993
Page Views: 6,490 total, 37/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


118 Opinions

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Description

This is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy Walls. It is a bolted line on a North face. It protects well and is a fun edging climb

Protection

A 2 bolt anchor up top, and 6 draws for the face. Bring a medium cam for the flake between 2 and 3.
Climb is really good where it moves right. Dont go left at top. Sep 2, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Fun, technical and balance-y. Loved it. #2 is solid in the flake, but honestly make one more move and you can clip the bolt. May 17, 2014
K Blase
Salt Lake City, UT
 
K Blase   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The cam placement is not necessary unless you are a very nervous leader. The move near the placement is easy and a 5.10 climber should have no problem. Great route and overall a pretty easy 5.10. Nov 25, 2011
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
5.10a
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
5.10a
#2 BD works just fine for the flake. It is very well protected and is actually a sport route, not trad. Sep 3, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a R
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a R
Fun climb with an exciting run-out if you aren't climbing this as a TR climb. I didn't have any cams for protection between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. If you fall while clipping at the 3rd bolt, you will likely hit the ground unless your belayer is really good at taking up the slack. Make sure you are solid at leading 10a before trying this without trad protection before the 3rd bolt.

Also, why do so many people here refer to limestone on this wall? Quartzite is the only rock there. Jul 30, 2010
grk10vq    
wonderful polished limestone. . .

it must be something really wonderful to sit between two quartzite routes, at a quartzite crag, in a primarily quartzite canyon.

i did hear the limestone face climbing at the top is second to none. Jul 13, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
I believe the rock type is quartzite, not limestone. Jul 13, 2009
Wonderful polished limestone with superb side pulls. Definitely a balance-y climb with a superb view of Outside Corner. Some loose rock though not quite falling out (just a few holds that shake disturbingly and encourage a second choice. Belay isn't great but anchoring would definitely keep you safe and sane. Jul 13, 2009
Ty Meadows
Moab, UT
Ty Meadows   Moab, UT
Great limestone face climbing toward top. Also, very nice exposure and view. #1 cam for flake. Jun 29, 2009
Scott U  
Very fun climb..I went too far left to avoid a hard move that i couldn't quite get...i was bummed because it is too hard to get back over....work through the moves and don't go left May 27, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Is there a better 10a in BCC? Not pumpy just thin and technical. Instead of placing the cam just make one more move. This section is the easiest part of the climb and has the best holds. I placed it my first time only to ask myself why as soon as I made the next easy move to the bolt...

Didn't see the loose rock. Maybe it is off to the right though. Aug 6, 2008
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Did this one twice today, once going left and once staying right. The right path at the top is much more fun, with two really great moves. The left path is just easy climbing and skipping the last bolt to get the chains, but no fun. Jun 30, 2007
Bill Bones  
 
Always a great climb, Must do for Limestone lovers. Feb 5, 2007
Did this one again today, and I feel it deserves mentioning to stay off that edge (arete) at the end of the route. The climb definitely is funner, more sustained, and 5.10a, on that face. Naturally, people go left as that is easier, but that avoids the crux.

Still Love this climb. Jul 31, 2005
Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10a
Dream Slate is a good climb, worth the short hike up a boulderfield. In my book, all that keeps it from being a 3-star is some loose/wobbly rock, particularly if you are left of centerline (looking up). Otherwise, the route is sustained, with an interesting sequence over a flake. Bring your camalot to protect at the flake, but avoid placing at the right side of the flake (again, looking up), since the rock is cracked and hollow sounding there. A nice, airy exposed finish completes a relatively long route. Sep 27, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Best 10a in the canyon, just my opinion though..... Jun 24, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10a
This face requires a lot of technique. Not very pumpy, not much cranking. Some body position needed to make use of side pulls. Bail left to the 5.8 arete if you get stumped on the last two bolts. The belay area is frightening -- a 5.2 slab where a misstep will cause you to tumble into the talus field. We belayed clipped in to the tree just east of the bolt line. Jun 17, 2004
#2 camalot works wonderfully. Also, watch the loose stuff. Most of the loose stuff seems wobbly only, not full on loose, but... Jun 14, 2004