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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Chris Penleton, Bret Ruckman, 1985
Page Views: 2,269 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Jul 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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46 Opinions

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Description

Nice right leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete.

Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR. Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area! Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential.

First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish.

Protection

Crack is 2 inch at the start, thin in the middle and top. Small to micro stoppers, microcams, a couple medium size pieces for the start.

Anchor: 2 somewhat rusty bolts on top (the old Narcolepsy anchor); need long slings and a backup piece or 2 to TR this.

Photos

Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
Duh, actually, it's a right leaning crack. IE, the other left.support lexdysia research. Jul 5, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
Great little route, that doesn't see enough traffic. Great gear up to #2 Camalot on the below-roof crack. Popping the roof is the crux, and the gear from here is pumpy to place and far between. I did only use one brass, but I also ran out the upper crack. From the ledge to the top, it degrades with what looks like bad rock, but nothing came off. I am glad I finally decided to give this route a go. Jul 31, 2005
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Highly recommended, starts as a 3-star but finishes poorly. 2.5 stars. Jun 28, 2010
Dean Raynes
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Dean Raynes   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Definitly still a lot of loose stuff on this one still but a fun, easy 10a. Will get better with a little more traffic. Some new anchors on the face rather then on top would be a nice addition. Sep 13, 2010
zoso
 
zoso  
 
The anchors can be replaced WHERE THEY ARE. No need to change location. And don't argue convenience. Getting a little sick of anchors popping up all over for "convenience". Sep 14, 2010
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Great climb on a great crag! Not sure what folks are going on about; there is good gear on this route, albeit small gear. If you are concerned about the anchor placement, figure it out. There is absolutely no reason for any more anchors in that vicinity, there are already FOUR sets of anchors up there within 30ft of each other! It is a traditional route, climb it that way or don't bitch about it. 4-5' of runners set off the existing bolt anchors clear the lip for a TR, problem solved. May 27, 2012
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.9+
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.9+
Love this rock. Amazing exposed climbing. Felt like a 5.9+ to me. Not sure whats going on with anchors at the top though, I saw 3 sets within like 5 feet of each other... Sep 22, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Great climbing. Typical BCC trad featuring just a couple of jams and a lot of face. I placed a 3# at the top. Bring a single rack in sizes larger than .75, doubles in smaller sizes. Anchors are in a fine spot and have no issues.

You can TR Dream Slate with a directional off those anchors pretty easily. Just have the last man climb up to the Involuntary Release anchors and clean from there. Aug 10, 2014

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