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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Jim Booth, Lenny Nelson 1964
Page Views: 1,686 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 19, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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31 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the right crack in the chimney on the cliffs just below Narcolepsy. Don't chimney, also don't fall too far backwards. A good climb with a few nice jams.

Protection

Long slings and gear for the anchors up top.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Really funky climbing on this one, even more so than Anuresis. I'd recommend TRing both before trying for the lead. The climbing is 5.9+ but the stances are awkward. Aug 10, 2014
new chain anchors have been added to this route in the last month or so.

Not necessary but convenient no less. Sep 18, 2013
WesR
slc, ut
WesR   slc, ut
You can walk off the top of this, it walks off into the main narcolepsy area Jun 26, 2012
oldfart  
Watch out for rattle snakes in the corridor! Sep 12, 2010
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
The first part of this lead is scary because you don't want to fall into the chimney. Once out of the chimney, you feel super exposed. Difficult stances for the grade; however, the crack takes nuts nicely (I placed five nuts and only one cam). Don't bother with any large pieces, all pro is small. Aug 16, 2006