Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Jim Booth, Lenny Nelson 1964
Page Views: 1,837 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 19, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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This climbs the right crack in the chimney on the cliffs just below Narcolepsy. Don't chimney, also don't fall too far backwards. A good climb with a few nice jams.


Long slings and gear for the anchors up top.


Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
The first part of this lead is scary because you don't want to fall into the chimney. Once out of the chimney, you feel super exposed. Difficult stances for the grade; however, the crack takes nuts nicely (I placed five nuts and only one cam). Don't bother with any large pieces, all pro is small. Aug 16, 2006
Watch out for rattle snakes in the corridor! Sep 12, 2010
slc, ut
WesR   slc, ut
You can walk off the top of this, it walks off into the main narcolepsy area Jun 26, 2012
new chain anchors have been added to this route in the last month or so.

Not necessary but convenient no less. Sep 18, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Really funky climbing on this one, even more so than Anuresis. I'd recommend TRing both before trying for the lead. The climbing is 5.9+ but the stances are awkward. Aug 10, 2014