Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 1,748 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 28, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This is the left of the two cracks, left of the Narcolepsy/Dreamscape face. An easy beginning leads to an awkward steeper section that gets more difficult as soon as Mr. Sandman branches right. A couple of cruxes, IMO, the first clearing the 1st overhanging section and the second on the exit sequence, will test your confidence. A nice climb worth doing with some fun jamming and a bit of chimneying.

Protection

There are 2 bolts that can be used for an anchor up top (Mr. Sandman's), but will cause some drag. Otherwise, the gear required is pretty standard, heavy on the larger cams/hexes. I also slung a couple of chockstones.

Photos

Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
I think that this climb deserves at least 2 stars. I really enjoyed it. The begining is quite easy but the climb gets more difficult at the roof. The roof is quite challenging until the proper holds are found, then a fun chimney sequence follows, lastly you will pull another roof by a rather awkward move to get around the corner to the anchors. This really should get climbed more often than it does. Great climb to introduce climbers to some unique techniques. Jul 7, 2008
Wow, the upper section of this route is awkward. Jul 5, 2011