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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 1,675 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 28, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the left of the two cracks, left of the Narcolepsy/Dreamscape face. An easy beginning leads to an awkward steeper section that gets more difficult as soon as Mr. Sandman branches right. A couple of cruxes, IMO, the first clearing the 1st overhanging section and the second on the exit sequence, will test your confidence. A nice climb worth doing with some fun jamming and a bit of chimneying.

Protection [Suggest Change]

There are 2 bolts that can be used for an anchor up top (Mr. Sandman's), but will cause some drag. Otherwise, the gear required is pretty standard, heavy on the larger cams/hexes. I also slung a couple of chockstones.

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Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
I think that this climb deserves at least 2 stars. I really enjoyed it. The begining is quite easy but the climb gets more difficult at the roof. The roof is quite challenging until the proper holds are found, then a fun chimney sequence follows, lastly you will pull another roof by a rather awkward move to get around the corner to the anchors. This really should get climbed more often than it does. Great climb to introduce climbers to some unique techniques. Jul 7, 2008
Wow, the upper section of this route is awkward. Jul 5, 2011

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