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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 268 total, 2/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Good Wide Climbing on the far west side of narcolepsy area. Nice cracks, mostly hands with some places a good deal wider. Belay is very awkward to set up. I continued to the top (climb east to attain narcolepsy anchors) and rapped down narcolepsy. This continuation is highly recommended to avoid the walk off to the west. A good crack for the leader trying to break into the grade. It felt a bit soft for a 5.8 to me.

Location

This Route is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy butress and is just west of Dream Slate. You can walk off this route to the west or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot. Either build trad anchor on the ledge/flake system at the top of the climb or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.

Photos

Mulch
SLC, Utah
  5.8-
Mulch   SLC, Utah
  5.8-
Fun route that protects really well with just nuts and hexes. The beginning is a really fun offwidth start then traverses out left then right to finger/hand cracks to the top. I traversed across the horizontal crack system at the top of the climb back to the wall directly behind the crag. I built an anchor in the cracks above a little indent/cave in the wall. Descended via suture fancy anchors. May 18, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun pitch but honestly the best moves are the transfer onto the last moves of Dream Slate. Probably better as a TR after leading Dream Slate. A 'walk off' looks like a 5.6 downclimb to the west. Mar 29, 2015
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Getting off this climb is interesting....dreamslate anchors are probably the best option if you climb 10a. head left when the climb ends and use two draws before the chains. Heading right to narcolepsy lead to some heinous rope drag(if you decide to protect the traverse) so i back tracked to dreamslate. Great route though with sweet jams and locks May 20, 2012