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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Stuart, Judy, and Bret Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 4,292 total · 23/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system. The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that. This is an edging climb that is very fun. The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands. Almost.

Protection

2 bolts atop for the anchor. They are actually on the wall now as opposed to over the top. 3 draws for the climb.

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
 
Nathan Fisher   St George  
 
Bolt 2 is a spinner Jun 14, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.9+
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9+
The rock on this wall is very nice -- kind of like the Slips, but on steroids. A little steeper, a bit more crimpy, requiring cranking. My serious concern is the protection, or lack thereof. Whoever set this route obviously had little concern for those that would subsequently lead it. 3 bolts over 60 feet -- are you kidding? Jun 17, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Great climb! I think the crux is very well protected (just past the third/last bolt). The start is somewhat runout, but only about 5.7 in difficulty. Excellent! Jun 22, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Crux is after second bolt, not third as indicated in my previous post. Realized that this morning after climbing it again. Jun 24, 2004
vincent pierce  
  5.9
2nd bolt has been replaced. In my eyes this is a well protected climb. The 15-20ft to the first bolt are quite easy and it stays safe (but a little runout) after that. Footwork is key! Jun 15, 2005
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Bolt position seemed fine to me. Great climb to practice footwork, I only had to pull once the entire climb. Jul 10, 2007
Great climb and excellent footwork exercise (got a friend who gets by on brute force? Bring him here and have some laughs). I agree with Lee that the bolting was irresponsible here. You can easily set up a top-rope by walking around the left. That first bolt is so high that you'd deck pretty hard if you missed the clip (not worth the risk in my opinion. A great little climb though and worth the sketchy approach. Jul 13, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
The bolting is "irresponsible"? No, climbers expecting every route in the canyon to be bolted safely, in accordance with their tastes, is irresponsible.

Look at the date of the FA. No power drills back then.

You'll remember a lead of this route long after the memory of just about any "sport" climb.

Celibrate diversity! If you're not up for it, then, TR it. Leading this route if you're not solid at the grade would be irresponsible... Jul 13, 2009
The bolt placements are excellent and the route is perfectly protected.
Take Brian's comment and learn from it, because it is very well put! Jul 13, 2009
zoso
 
zoso  
 
AMEN to Ben and Brian's comments. Jul 16, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
AMEN to Zoso's comment! Jul 31, 2009
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
For near-vertical slab, this is a perfect route, really. Jun 28, 2010
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Don't be deterred by the scant protection. The climbing felt pretty mellow and way easier than dream slate and quite low angle. That being said, a 5.9 climber should approach it with respect. Jun 25, 2012
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.9
I love this area. Wall is absolutely perfect. No crowds, nice and cool. First bolt is high but climbing is mellow, keep your head and you'll do fine. Similar to The Slips. Absolutely amazing route, textbook bolting. Easy to clip stances, technical thin climbing, and some longer bolt spacing to keep it spicy. Plus it was bolted on lead with hand drills. Amazing! Sep 22, 2013
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
One of the best at this crag! After climbing Narcolepsy this seemed mellow. Don't bother bringing extra gear, there isn't any, just bullet rock and fun climbing between the 3 bolts. Mar 7, 2014
delete delete
Bountiful
delete delete   Bountiful
There shouldn't be any bolts at all on this route. It would be unethical to think otherwise. Jul 25, 2018
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Such an "edgey" comment! And by all means T please keep thinking! I'm not going to pretend it will make you smarter...but it will hopefully over time make you more interesting! Jul 25, 2018
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.9
I always thought this route was hand drilled on lead by the FA?? Taylor looking at those recent ticks it wouldn't seem you have much room to talk.. Aug 30, 2018

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