All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Narcolepsy Area

Up A Cliff Without a Ladder

Name: Up A Cliff Without a Ladder
Rating: 2.9

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Narcolepsy Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dream Slate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dreamscape S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Sandman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Narcolepsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Narcosis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Bret and Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views:	4,581 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Jun 13, 2004
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help is kind of strong, but damn!!! That upper face is so smooth, then when you think you got it licked, reach up for the ledge above the chains.... and scream "falling!!", cause that ledge ain't any help. Fun climb, but what a pump.

Protection

2 rap anchors at the top. 3 bolts + 1 piton are on the climb. Bring some trad gear. .75 cam worked well in the crack before the 1st bolt. There is a small nut "lost" after the 2nd bolt. It probably should be left alone as it is pretty set.