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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 2,966 total, 18/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help is kind of strong, but damn!!! That upper face is so smooth, then when you think you got it licked, reach up for the ledge above the chains.... and scream "falling!!", cause that ledge ain't any help. Fun climb, but what a pump.

Protection

2 rap anchors at the top. 3 bolts + 1 piton are on the climb. Bring some trad gear. .75 cam worked well in the crack before the 1st bolt. There is a small nut "lost" after the 2nd bolt. It probably should be left alone as it is pretty set.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.11a
The chains are convenient but stopping there you miss the very cool top out moves, so if you want to do the original finish, clip the chains and bring a 1, 2, and 0.5 camalot to make a bomber anchor about 10 feet above them. Jul 21, 2014
man, i would have been really smart to look at this site before i climbed this one...i felt good enough to climb with the pin and no gear but got up to where the pin used to be before i realized it wasn't there...it becomes a pretty good runout between bolts...definitely bring gear...great climb though! Oct 11, 2010
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.11a
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.11a
Very cool and interesting, not awkward at all if you read the rock correctly. Great gear where the pin used to be. Sep 22, 2010
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
This route has certainly changed over the years. What used to be a gear-protected start is now gone, but a bolt or two have appeared and I think its actually a bit harder to read (and climb) than it once was. Worth repeating if you haven't done it in awhile. Jun 28, 2010
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
NOTE: as of September 2009 the pin midway up is gone. There is a good TCU placement near by that affords protection. As such, take 2-4 TCUs for protecting this area as well as the upper area that also requires a TCU. Sep 30, 2009
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Used to be a gear anchor. Jan 29, 2009
tenesmus  
 
takes a tcu or two for that last face. I think I even equailzed a couple of them once. The footholds on the upper face are really cool. May 12, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  5.11b
Lee Gitlin  
  5.11b
Here's a route with a little of everything. The bottom 2/3 has some cool bouldery moves, with body position being key to utilize several of the holds. The top 15 feet totally changes character -- a smooth, vertical affair with only a few (THIN) holds. Kudos to the route setters for some very intelligent, positive protection. Jun 17, 2004