Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman 1989
Page Views: 2,815 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the left crack (Chimney Sweep) in the deep chimney system until the prow and then works right to the bolts and finishes on the prow. The crack is easy and enjoyable. When you get to the prow, don't be overwhelmed, as the faces get very smooth and stemming seems to be the key to get out on the prow. Second, flexibility in the legs and a long reach seem helpful.

Protection

2 bolts up top for the anchors. 3 draws for the prow, and some medium gear for the crack leading to the prow.

Photos

CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
goes free with a few tcu's, micro nuts, and a #4 bd cam. Jun 22, 2010
Jared928
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Jared928   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
No idea why this only has two stars on here and one star in the Ruckman Guide. Probably my favorite ten in BCC. Awesome stemming to a handful of fun uniquely exposed face moves up the prow complete with a bouldery throw to the mantle. Highly recommended. Jul 24, 2013
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.10a
Really awkward stemming out to get onto the bolted slab face. Technical. Very fun climb. May 17, 2014
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
I'm embarrassed to admit this but I went up here with some friends and after leading the gear route next to it thought why not toprope this. I fell at the mentioned awkward stemming part and chopped my rope. Don't toprope this that edge is sharp. Apr 22, 2018