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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman 1989
Page Views: 2,621 total, 15/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the left crack (Chimney Sweep) in the deep chimney system until the prow and then works right to the bolts and finishes on the prow. The crack is easy and enjoyable. When you get to the prow, don't be overwhelmed, as the faces get very smooth and stemming seems to be the key to get out on the prow. Second, flexibility in the legs and a long reach seem helpful.

Protection

2 bolts up top for the anchors. 3 draws for the prow, and some medium gear for the crack leading to the prow.
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Really awkward stemming out to get onto the bolted slab face. Technical. Very fun climb. May 17, 2014
Jared928
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Jared928   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
No idea why this only has two stars on here and one star in the Ruckman Guide. Probably my favorite ten in BCC. Awesome stemming to a handful of fun uniquely exposed face moves up the prow complete with a bouldery throw to the mantle. Highly recommended. Jul 24, 2013
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
goes free with a few tcu's, micro nuts, and a #4 bd cam. Jun 22, 2010