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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,645 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This climbs the right crack in the deep chimney, staying right of the prow. The climb is easy, protects well, and is enjoyable.

Protection

No fixed gear. Long slings for the anchor help. I used the chockstone and a little extra gear. For the climb use medium to large gear.

Photos

Allen Briggs
  5.6
Allen Briggs  
  5.6
This route now has anchor chains hanging just left of the chockstone. Mar 14, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
An underrated climb. Great movement in the corner with a section of squeeze chimney that is so few moves it's actually pleasant. Make sure you bring some extra long runners to figure out the chains at the top. Aug 18, 2014
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.6
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.6
Fun, easy, and protects well. In the chimney, good jams and jugs keep the grovel factor down. May look a little intimidating from the ground, but not harder than other 5.6 climbs in the area. I wouldn't recommend lugging the BD#4 - I didn't find a place for it. Aug 15, 2010
Was a great lead, but was a little surprised not to find a chain anchor at the top. If not wanting to leave any gear it is easy to walk to the anchors of both climbs to the right of this one. Jul 8, 2008
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
If you climb in the Narcolepsy area, climb this route. Climb softly, however, because it is hard to tell what holds are bomber and what ones are waiting to pop out. Don't let this be cause for concern as it eats up protection. It is also really easy, with varied climbing, and a fun chimney. I was pleasantly surprised and look forward to climbing it again. Jun 24, 2004