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Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Anuresis T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Slate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreamscape S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethiopian Kid T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Involuntary Release T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Sandman T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Narcolepsy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Narcosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Doze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Suture Fancy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn Of The Sentry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1985
Page Views: 148 total · 7/month
Shared By: grk10vq on May 3, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

"You're going to climb that?!" Ethiopian Kid is Narcolepsy's orphan, the "elephant in the room" or crag as it were... Climb the obvious broken or destroyed looking crack up the left side of the buttress. A low crux allows for you to recover just in time to get freaked out again by the integrity of the line's upper section. Sustained climbing from the roof through the upper crack, physical relief will come after the crack turns into shattered munge. A fun but short line that is impaired by it's deteriorating quality. A mandatory send for the crag tick.

Location

The obvious finger sized crack through a roof, this route is directly left of Up a Cliff Without a Ladder.

Protection

Small to medium gear for the crack, draws, runners, and a cordelette. Build an anchor at the top with medium to large sized gear.

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