Elevation: 5,554 ft
GPS: 40.622, -111.763 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,009 total · 98/month
Shared By: Adam Broadbent on Dec 29, 2001 with improvements by Shawn Adrian
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

All routes are trad and are on the finest quartzite rock. There are many moderate routes that are fantastic for the beginner to intermediate climber (5.7-5.9+), all offer protection that is superb and plentiful. On the more demanding routes (5.10R and above) the protection is small and a little tricky to place, but secure once fitted correctly. Most routes follow obvious cracks and all have some sort of rappel at the top (bring some ditch webbing in case the old rap anchors are crusty). The area is best in the summer, but can be climbed in fall (snow permitting). Not much for camping offered nearby, but for the truly determined camping is allowed anywhere within a quarter mile from Big Cottonwood river, no fires.

Getting There

This crag lies on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, above the Ledgemere Picnic area. Drive 1.4 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon, park at the camp or along the road to avoide paying a $2 fee that is enforced during the summer. To get to the crag, walk across the westmost bridge into Ledgemere camp and head east (left) until site #5. An obvious high traffic talus slope presents itself wandering up the south side of the canyon. Follow the loose talus for two hundred yards or so, then break left (east) into a gully, (blue spray paint marks the mouth of the gully thanks to some obvious losers) . The routes are on the north facing wall, spread along it for a hundred yards or so.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Penitentiary Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 70
Tax Evasion
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 96
Climb and Punishment
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 30
Jailbait
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 3
Jack the Ripper
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tax Evasion
 70
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Climb and Punishment
 96
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Jailbait
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jack the Ripper
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
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