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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 189 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 13, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This climb starts on the left-facing crack, right of Tax Evasion. After the left-facer jogs right, it climbs the thin crack in the face to the tree or higher. The book calls it a 5.7?, I felt more like a 5.6. Not too much excitement on the route, as it climbs like a face climb with crack protection.

Protection

There are slings around a horn up top. Gear on the route is a standard rack. Either bring some medium to small cams or be good at nutcraft, as the crack tends to be parallel.

Photos

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Lee Gitlin
  5.6
Lee Gitlin  
  5.6
Nothing much to rave about here. Lots of places to rest or stem. 5.7 seems too generous. 5.6 is probably more accurate, but do yourself a favor and go climb schoolroom instead. Don't make the scramble up to Penetentiary for this route. Aug 15, 2005