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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, and Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the second slab from the left. It starts on top of a ledge system and works thin cracks and edges. It meanders left around a hard area, and then traverses back right to join up with a thin crack that splits the center of the face. Fun climb.

Protection

Slings around flakes up top. Bring your own just in case. Top-rope can be set up by climbing the climbs to the right and then scrambling up to the top of this flake. Be safe. If leading bring micro nuts

Photos

Stevie Nacho   Utah
Led this yestersay and I really think its a great short climb. Bring a bunch of tiny to small nuts. Brassies are great. I saw a few spots where the smallest lowe-ball would be bomber, so bring those if you got'em. I placed a #6 (green) metolius down low, and a #7 (light blue) metolius around the corner with a long sling. HIgher up I stuffed a #00 metolius and a #0 metolius. This thing is worth climbing if you are comfortable with small gear and know how to place it. As for the "R" rating, I'm not sure that this is a true runout out climb. Maybe back in '84 when the Ruckmans climbed it pre-t.c.u.'s.

-tda Jun 21, 2012
Small gear is an understatement. A couple of yellow metolius, a purple DMM, a couple of brass, and a red metolius, for the lower face. The top can take a couple of cams in horizontal cracks, from small to medium would work as the cracks vary in size. Bring runners, and a screamer for luck. Aug 21, 2005