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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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4 Opinions

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Description

The right arete of Penitentiary holds a route that protects pretty well with gear, just right of the climb Jailbait. Start up the right facing corner below the roof. Climb over the roof on the right side, then continue up the arete which has good edges and stopper placements. Rap from the same anchors as Jailbait.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
This part description is odd to me "Start up the right facing corner below the roof. Climb over the roof on the right side." It sounds like one climbs the right facing corner that is below the roof which becomes part of Jail Bait then escapes right at the roof to the arête. Which is reasonable if one wants to avoid the face above the roof.

However, to gain the arête we started at the base of "Jail Bait" went up may be 10 feet to the right to the first small roof that is below the dirty right facing corner then traversed further right over to the arête. After that we climbed up the arête.

I should also note that one can start the arête from the base but the first 20 feet are a bit dirty cause of the tree next it and thus why we traversed in a bit higher.

Finally, if the FA party remains unknown and the route lacks a name. I would like to suggest "County Lockup" thus keeping with the prison theme. Jul 16, 2012