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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, Bret and Stuart Ruckman 1984
Page Views: 1,633 total, 10/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Jailbait climbs the right side of Penitentiary Wall. Jam up really secure climbing below the roof. Pop over the roof at a thin crack, then continue up through flakes (good holds) up to a set of chain anchors. The upper face is difficult to protect.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

Funky gear, but worth climbing. Jul 3, 2015
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Really cool line. Jun 21, 2012
Jeff Guest
Coalville, UT
  5.9
Jeff Guest   Coalville, UT
  5.9
Watch out for the wasp nest under the overhang. If you stay to the left of the roof they will leave you alone. Aug 22, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9+
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9+
Great climb on beautiful rock, and there's not a lot of rock in BCC that I classify as beautiful. The gear is tricky. Perhaps some small tricams would also be nice for the horizontal cracks, mine were too big :( Aug 15, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Heady lead, especially above the roof. I seemed to bring all the wrong sizes of gear. Smaller gear up top, and tricky to say the least. Aug 21, 2005