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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Pendleton, Gary Olsen, and Bret Ruckman 1984
Page Views: 237 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The furthest left climb on the this section of walls. It consists of a right trending flake that lends itself well to jams (finger and hand).

Protection

The climb utilizes trad gear only. I utilized medium and large nuts, and medium cams. The anchor consists of slings around a flake, so one would be wise to bring extras in case the old ones need to be cut off.

Photos

Keenan Burkley
Salt Lake City
  5.7
Keenan Burkley   Salt Lake City
  5.7
C3's work well for the spicy lower section. i wouldn't have minded having a couple more of the smaller sizes on me Apr 21, 2014
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
 
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
 
Agree with above, a few to many slings up top I think, some could be cut off to clean things up. Jun 14, 2009
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
I don't really recognize Nathan's description...or perhaps we were on different variations. Either way, this climbs the right facing 3 inch "flake", which snakes its way up and right to the bush on top of the wall. I wouldn't recommend this climb for 5.7 leaders. You need good footwork and the placements are thin, small and there are some exciting runouts for a 60 foot (?) climb. Bring medium and small nuts, and bring small cams (0's, 1's, 2's, 3's.) The more small cams you have the better you will feel. The biggest cam I placed was a .5 camalot. The anchor as of today is a well slung tree/bush. While you are there, top rope Deception (the arete to the right of Rehabilitation.) Aug 21, 2004