Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 3,054 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 10, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the splitter on the 3rd slab from the left. Besides a scrambling beginning, this climb is beautiful. It lends itself to perfect finger jams and stacked finger jams. WOW! I would hike to Penitentiary just for this climb.

Protection

This route shares the anchor system (slings on a flake), so bring extras just in case. It protects with small to medium gear.

Photos

vincent pierce
  5.9-
vincent pierce  
  5.9-
A very fun climb. Looking to crack into the 5.9 trad game? This may be the one for you. The first fifteen feet is maybe a 5.9 finger that protects well with something small and then the crack gets wide and real easy to the top. I just wish it was fifty feet longer. Sep 14, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9-
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9-
Lead this one today, and it protects very well. Brass nut for the initial moves, then increasingly larger cams up to a #4 DMM. Nuts do work, but because of the relatively parallel nature of the crack, cams are easier. I did use a large hex up top, so the #4 was redundant (I always try to use my trusty hexes at least once). Aug 3, 2005
This is a quality splitter. Start with finger locks, working hard for good feet. Be thankful for the jugs mid route, then get ready for some jams. I found it to be just a wee bit too tight for a full fist jam, but your mileage will undoubtedly vary. Only route length keeps this from being a true classic. Aug 15, 2005
TobinPetty
Pinetop, AZ
 
TobinPetty   Pinetop, AZ
 
I left two pieces in the bottom of the crack; one nut and #0 power cam with a draw. I left them due to a climbing accident that occured there with a buddy of mine on 05.26.06; I was unable to retrieve them at the time and would appreciate it greatly if someone finds them before I can get back, that they contact me and I'll take them out to dinner or something for their generosity. More to come on the climbing accident in the days to follow. May 26, 2006
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
  5.9-
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
  5.9-
Classic! And possibly to easiest-to-protect climb at the penitentiary May 14, 2008
This is a classic whether it's short or not! Worth the dicey approach up a steep rock field (make sure you aren't coming down in the dark). The finger jambs are classic and that two handed lip in the middle feels like it's big enough for a picnic by the time you reach it. The right gear makes this route very well protected and a whole lotta fun. Jun 24, 2009
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Starts as a seam and opens wider in a hurry but the initial moves on the meat of the climb are stout. Difficulty varies based on finger size but since I've got fatter fingers this felt like a couple serious 5.9 moves. Those with slimmer fingers will probably feel great on the #.3 section. May 31, 2014
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Great climb, awesome finger locks, and someone removed the welded cam! Wish it was longer. Jul 3, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Although this could be longer (what couldn't) this climb deserves 4 stars in my book! Probably the most quintessential 9- I have ever found! Small nuts are beneficial for getting the courage to lift off the deck, and a .3 will give you what you need for the crux. Not a terrible one for breaking into the 9 grade on trad, much cleaner than the lines you will find on bumble bee wall. Jul 11, 2016
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I lost a black diamond nut in the finger crack portion, my partner and I both tried for quite a while to get it out, It would move around a bit but we just couldn't find a way to get it out. If anyone gets it out, it's yours. I also noticed there's a link cam jammed deep inside the crack right where it starts to open up to hands. Someone had cut the sling off it. Good climb, I would say feet are tricky down low. Jul 23, 2016
Tom Oaks
5.10a
Tom Oaks  
5.10a
Four of us climbed this route and all agreed it should be rated 10a.
Very small finger crack (only tiny fingers could fit) down low, opening up to a larger finger crack up higher. Aug 29, 2018
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Um no. Aug 29, 2018