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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: S&M Chris Pendleton and Gary Olsen 1984 / B&D John Ross late 1990s? Allen Sanderson and John Steiger FRA 2012
Page Views: 156 total · 1/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 20, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

S&M starts below the scooped out area, left of Jailbait, climbing past the silica snakes. A couple of fun moves before it moves up and right into Jailbait, 30 feet up (the original finish).

B&D finish (independent of Jailbait). After the business part of S&M rather than moving up and right to join Jailbait continue straight up to a short headwall with a dish in it. After the dish, step left to a nice finger crack and continue up along the arete to a set of chain anchors. It is of similar difficulty and pro to that of Jail Bait.

Protection

For S&M, micro-nuts, HB offsets, peenuts, etc. are necessary, if you can find the spots. For B&D similar gear as one would use for Jailbait, small/medium cams.

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ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
FWIW, there's a thread where these are "discussed." mountainproject.com/v/bolte…
I would disagree that the bolts are on Jailbait, but there are now 3 or 4 bolts protecting the start to S&M. Aug 26, 2014

More About S&M / B&D

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