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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Kevin Gheen 1985
Page Views: 148 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 13, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This climbs the crack a foot off the arete that is left of Climb and Punishment. In other words, the west facing crack on the right arete of the Life Sentence slab. This line is contrived, as you can make it a lot easier than 5.9+, by using the Climb and Punishment face. If you avoid that face, it might be a 5.9-, but the difficulty comes from trying to avoid that face. No, just kidding. It is funner if you don't use the face.

Protection

There will be slings around the horn up top. The route protects with a standard rack, nothing larger than a #2 Camalot.

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