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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 421 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 10, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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51 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun crack climb that climbs the 3rd slab from the left. This slab has a nice splitter in the middle of it. This climb works the crack that faces west on the right arete. Foot jams and hand jams. This climb was an exciting little lead.

Protection

Medium to large stoppers, and cams are needed for this climb. The anchor system is a flake with slings, so bring extras in case they need replacing.
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great for new leaders, and can be a means to TR routes around it! probably the best single pitch intro trad routes I have found up big. Jul 11, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
One of the best climbs at the grade in BCC. Has chain anchors up top. They look fairly new. Standard rack. I definitely placed two #3s. May 31, 2014
vincent pierce  
  5.7
Did I really need to place three pieces in the last 20 feet? No. But it takes gear so well u just can't help yourself. Do this, and then do Climb and Punishment. Sep 14, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun climb, can easily be sewn up with gear. Aug 21, 2004