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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FRA Stuart and Bret Ruckman 1985
Page Views: 212 total, 1/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Aug 20, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.

Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.

This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.

Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.

Protection

Standard trad rack works.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
If you think you need gear bigger than a #4 look to your right. stacks of cracks on this underrated climb. That being said I think a five could fit in the big guy. do your self a favor, top out right and check out Minimum Security, it's worth it! Jun 6, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route can gobble up some bigger gear though there is places for smaller pieces if you look. Fairly easy to traverse to the new chains just above Tax Evasion. Has a tiny bit of punky rock, but overall great quality. Jun 5, 2014
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.7
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.7
This is a fun climb - every bit as good as Tax Evasion, if not better. I only had a single set of C4s through #4. There were alternate gear options that worked well enough, but I would have liked to have had one or two #5s with me. Jun 5, 2010
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.7
Correct, this route is better stemmed than liebacked (except at the crux about 20 feet up). There are a bunch of slings 30-40 feet up from the "top" of the route. Jul 7, 2006