Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FRA Stuart and Bret Ruckman 1985
Page Views: 310 total · 2/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Aug 20, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

29 Opinions

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This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.

Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.

This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.

Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.


Standard trad rack works.


Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Correct, this route is better stemmed than liebacked (except at the crux about 20 feet up). There are a bunch of slings 30-40 feet up from the "top" of the route. Jul 7, 2006
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
This is a fun climb - every bit as good as Tax Evasion, if not better. I only had a single set of C4s through #4. There were alternate gear options that worked well enough, but I would have liked to have had one or two #5s with me. Jun 5, 2010
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
This route can gobble up some bigger gear though there is places for smaller pieces if you look. Fairly easy to traverse to the new chains just above Tax Evasion. Has a tiny bit of punky rock, but overall great quality. Jun 5, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
If you think you need gear bigger than a #4 look to your right. stacks of cracks on this underrated climb. That being said I think a five could fit in the big guy. Jun 6, 2017