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Routes in Penitentiary Wall

Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deception TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2012
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up and perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M. Boulder up to the blob, step right around it continue up trending slightly left to a broken head wall. The headwall has lots of nice holds for both the feet and hands. Finish at a flat ledge. Belay here with natural gear or continue up and to the left to the anchors for Minimum Security.

Location

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M.

Protection

Small nuts, TCUs, and small cams. When you see opportunities for gear, place something. A 1" cam works great for protecting mid way up the head wall. A PG rating was given as a 5.8 leader might find the protection opportunities a little difficult.

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