Mountain Project Logo

Repeat Offender

5.8 PG13, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2012
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall

Description

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up and perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M. Boulder up to the blob, step right around it continue up trending slightly left to a broken head wall. The headwall has lots of nice holds for both the feet and hands. Finish at a flat ledge. Belay here with natural gear or continue up and to the left to the anchors for Minimum Security.

Location

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M.

Protection

Small nuts, TCUs, and small cams. When you see opportunities for gear, place something. A 1" cam works great for protecting mid way up the head wall. A PG rating was given as a 5.8 leader might find the protection opportunities a little difficult.