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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Oct. 2014
Page Views: 2,014 total · 46/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 9, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is the left-most of the three parallel thin crack systems starting off a ledge about 30 feet off the ground on the north face of Dead Snag crag. Social Engineering starts by face climbing straight up past the left-most of the pair of bolts that protect access to the ledge (the right-most bolt marks the start of Call Me Slim). From the ledge, take the broken-looking crack on the left to get established in the nice thin crack above. Finger jamming leads to a break below a bulging bolt-protected headwall. Follow the bolts to chains. Between the second and third headwall bolt, you’'ll likely want some gear -- see below.

Location

Social Engineering is about 25 feet right of Ad Lib and 20 feet left of the large chimney/gully that separates Dead Snag from Talk Buttress. The best approach is to follow the Storm Mountain trail cut-off toward the base of Stoerts' Ridge, then catch the short trail to the Direct North Ridge on Talk Buttress (see that page); you’'ll see the route on the smooth looking face to the left. Takes about 15 minutes to reach the climbs from the parking area across the road from the entrance to the Storm Mountain Picnic Area. With a 70m rope, lower from chains/fixed biners.

Protection

Set of wires and cams to a gold Camalot (no. 2), draws, and a few long slings. Consider a few extra cams in the finger size. Save a blue (.3) and grey (.4) Camalot for above the second bolt on the headwall. 70m rope likely mandatory to lower.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
You can rap this line with a 60 m rope, it will leave you with about nothing to spare. No top roping though, a 70 m would be mandatory.
Excellent line on solid rock, even the wide section felt solid. The gear is good but as usual in BCC, a bit tricky to set right. The moves and exposure at the roof are classic. Great find! Jun 1, 2015
Steven Amter
  5.10b
Steven Amter  
  5.10b
I followed this as my first Watsach climb. Airy and fun, with good, sometimes hidden handholds. An impressive line. Jun 20, 2015
Another great addition- I started up the lichen-covered crack directly below the upper crack, and then decided it needed a bit of cleaning (and maybe a bolt?). If you want some help to clean the lower crack up to straighten out the lines I'm happy to help. Jul 6, 2015
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
I thought the left start as in the description (which already has a bolt) worked fine for this route and the center one. Jul 6, 2015
tenesmus  
 
Wow! I find it difficult to not 'over-stoke'. The gear is great and plentiful, the climbing is mellow, the rests are huge, the movement varied and the crux headwall is nice and exposed. What more can you ask for an entry level 5.10. This feels much easier than Ad Lib and more secure than the .9+.

+1 for what Boissal, and ddriver said. Use a 70. The bottom is fine. If you were really freaked out you could place a # 1 or 2 camalot in a horizontal before you pull onto the ledge.
I forgot to bring nuts and placed one each from yellow tcu-#3 camalot. You could almost protect the whole gear sections with nuts though - the crack undulates perfectly for it. Oct 2, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Fun route - better warm-up than the 9+ which I thought was more sustained and trickier to protect. Aug 5, 2016
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
 
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
 
Great route! Really well protected. Good rests. Seemed less technical than the .9+. The moves were a bit more powerful but easier to figure out. I placed mostly nuts in the crack but did use a few medium sized cams as well. Aug 12, 2016
WillK  
This climb was fun and very, very chill. The crack eats nuts with great stances to place gear. The headwall crux is bolted and felt plenty safe. Yea def soft for 5.10. Jul 1, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I'll vote this for best 10a/b in BCC! Apr 29, 2018
Wow, Great route, thanks for putting this one up........one of my favorite routes. We climbed with a 60 m rope and made it down with a slight bit of down-climbing. You can rap with a 60 down to the second set of belay anchors for "call me slim" and rap from there. Social Engineering and Force of Nature are two of my two favorite climbs currently. Go do em...........ss Jul 11, 2018
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Another excellent Steiger route. Definitely more secure than C.M.S. next door. BCC routes are always changing and getting cleaned up, this is a long pitch so that may add to the difficulty but me thinks this is 10a. Excellent route and in the shade for a long time during the summer. Jul 21, 2018

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