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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,458 total, 21/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The East Dihedrals route is probably the most obvious line on the Dead Snag when looking from a distance. This route starts just a small ways left of Steort's. The anchors for the top of pitches 1 & 2 are both gear anchors.

P1) This pitch climbs the deep right facing dihedral just left of Steort's. Wander up through an easy opening to a bulge move to start the main dihedral. Pull through this cool move, then up the dihedral. When this feature dies out, wander up easy climbing heading a little left to a good ledge/pod below a steep hand crack.

P2) Climb up this hand crack, through another small bulge, then cruise up an easy right facing dihedral until a belay ledge. Another gear anchor.

P3) Take your choice of 5.easy routes to the chain anchors on a big ledge. This pitch is short. Maybe could be combined with P2 with a 60m rope?

Descent) Rap 3 times, using fixed chain anchors. All raps require only one rope and are on good ledges.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
A great option if Steort's is busy or you've done Steort's ridge 100x. The good climbing on this route, imo, is better than the good climbing on Steort's, but as others have noted consistency and positioning are better on Steort's. The two roofs in the dihedrals weren't hard, but they definitely felt like short 5.7 sections. The rest is 5th class. Worthwhile for sure, **/4. Apr 10, 2014
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Did this with a 60 meter in 2 pitches. Belay at big ledge and then to chains up top. I went over the bulge (the most obvious line to take) on the first pitch. Pretty stout for 5.6. It was a one move kind of deal with good pro. In my opinion, it was the crux of the climb.

There was a TON of chalk to the right that practically goes through the same bulge as Jigs/Steort. That looked way easier. Not sure people can call it 5.6 and skip the crux of the climb. Beside they missed the best move of the whole climb.

1.5 stars for inconsistency. Sep 4, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
Great little route that we did (unplanned b/c Steort's was so busy) in the summer. Got a bit of shade behind that dihedral! So I guess it was meant to be. Definitely link pitch 2 and 3 together. I thought the climbing was fun and unique. Definitely worth doing! Almost got hit by a basketball sized boulder from the party above...made me remember I'm not invincible and can't control all the risks... Jul 8, 2013
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 70 and belayed on the nice ledge about 40 feet below the top (with about 10-15 feet of rope left). It was great and rope drag wasn't an issue. Jun 13, 2012
JeffUT
Roy, Utah
 
JeffUT   Roy, Utah
 
First and second pitch were decent, last short pitch was weak. Lost a friend on this one (the wild-country variety). My fiancee got it wedged deep in a crack. At least it was one of my old forged ones. I guess the moral of the story is; once you get a fiance, you are bound to lose some friends! Oct 11, 2010
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
One of first trad leads, the roof kind of freaked me out. It was good fun though, with good belay set ups and fun corner cracks. Belay at the top of the first pitch from the steort's ridge belay.The top of the second pitch can be set up across from the 2nd rap chains for steort's ridge. You can easy walk to them on easily ledges from there. Sep 25, 2010
builttospill  
 
Who chops a fixed nut?

This route is fun, but should definitely be done in two pitches. Otherwise I'm not sure it would be worth it. Not sustained enough, but worth doing if you're in the area anyway.

A good day is to do all three 5.6 routes on this formation (Steort's, East Dihedrals, North Dihedrals). I left out Jig's Up because when I do Steort's Ridge I always seem to do a "Dead Snag highlight tour" in which I start in the dihedral for East Dihedrals, cut right after the small bulge, sometimes use the thin cracks on Jigs Up (p2) and finish on the arete for Steort's up top. It always just seems more logical this way. May 25, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.6
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.6
The wire on the lost nut on the last pitch has been chopped. There is also a lost tri-cam on the first pitch, good luck trying to "un-sink the pink". We climbed this in two pitches, just as Jason mentioned (with the belay just below the pin). For the second pitch, finish the dihedral and once it starts to level out, climb out on the face. There is a great crack below a small juniper and the face climbing above the juniper is great too. Aug 5, 2006
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.6
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.6
This is a great little climb that can be done in two pitches with a 60M rope. Climb the first pitch past the two ledges to a nice belay ledge that has a piton about 8 feet up at about 2 o'clock. From here most the exciting climbing is done. I moved out on the face, just left of the piton, and continued up. This climb was great as two pitches, I saw no need for an additonal belay. Jun 28, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.6
Nathan Fisher  
  5.6
East dihedrals suffer from inconsistency. Pitch 1 is decent climbing, but nothing spectacular. The hand crack directly above the 1st belay station is the only part of the climb, in my opinion, that warrants a "classic" 3 star rating, but because the rest of the climb above this point is almost a 4th class scramble it detracts. Definitely an easy lead, regardless of the supposed exposure, because of the easy climbing and the bomber protection throughout. Pitch 2 has a lost nut, please leave as is, as it isn't worth your trouble getting it out. Jul 4, 2004
Sheldon Sabbatini
Salt Lake City, Utah
Sheldon Sabbatini   Salt Lake City, Utah
My first multi-pitch climb. Fun climb. May 3, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
The route can be seen, pretty much centered, in this photograph. It climbs the obvious right facing dihedral which is a little shaded.

This climb has some 3 star quality climbing on it, but also has some easy wandering up loose rock which deteriorates from the route quality. May 3, 2004