Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Unknown - FRA Allen & Becky Sanderson
Page Views: 776 total · 5/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Really a variation of Jigs Up as it follows the thin crack system that is 6 to 8 feet to the left of Jigs Up and 10 to 12 feet to the right of the East Dihedrals.

Above the common belay for the second pitch of Steort's Ridge and Jigs Up there is a small roof. Jigs Up goes up the parallel cracks to the right of it. Instead surmount the roof directly on the left side (5.8-). A parallel set of thin finger cracks leads above, follow them as they continue up, always staying between the East Dihedrals and Jigs Up. At times the cracks are but a seam however there are great holds on the face (5.6-5.7). After 140' finish the pitch at the belay for Jigs Up.

From the belay continue one can follow the traditional exit pitch to Jigs Up by going up and left. Or as has been previously done climb the crack system to the right of the small left facing corner. Following the crack system involves a barn door move as it goes by the small roof (5.7+).

HIstorical notes: This variation in all likelihood has been done sometime in the past. However, there is fair amount of lichen under the roof which indicates that if it has been done it has been rarely repeated. As such I have listed this simply as the First Recorded Ascent (FRA).

As for the name. A rather nervous young woman who was climbing Steort's Ridge for the first time thought she was not going to make it. Midway through the 2nd pitch in a weak voice she asked me to "Tell my boyfriend that if I die, I love him" I just laughed and said sure but you will die another day.

Location

Starts from the second pitch of Jigs Up.

Descend using the standard walkoff and 60 foot rappel.

Protection

Smal nuts and cams

Photos

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