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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Unknown - FRA Allen & Becky Sanderson
Page Views: 431 total, 3/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Really a variation of Jigs Up as it follows the thin crack system that is 6 to 8 feet to the left of Jigs Up and 10 to 12 feet to the right of the East Dihedrals.

Above the common belay for the second pitch of Steort's Ridge and Jigs Up there is a small roof. Jigs Up goes up the parallel cracks to the right of it. Instead surmount the roof directly on the left side (5.8-). A parallel set of thin finger cracks leads above, follow them as they continue up, always staying between the East Dihedrals and Jigs Up. At times the cracks are but a seam however there are great holds on the face (5.6-5.7). After 140' finish the pitch at the belay for Jigs Up.

From the belay continue one can follow the traditional exit pitch to Jigs Up by going up and left. Or as has been previously done climb the crack system to the right of the small left facing corner. Following the crack system involves a barn door move as it goes by the small roof (5.7+).


HIstorical notes: This variation in all likelihood has been done sometime in the past. However, there is fair amount of lichen under the roof which indicates that if it has been done it has been rarely repeated. As such I have listed this simply as the First Recorded Ascent (FRA).

As for the name. A rather nervous young woman who was climbing Steort's Ridge for the first time thought she was not going to make it. Midway through the 2nd pitch in a weak voice she asked me to "Tell my boyfriend that if I die, I love him" I just laughed and said sure but you will die another day.

Location

Starts from the second pitch of Jigs Up.

Descend using the standard walkoff and 60 foot rappel.

Protection

Smal nuts and cams

Photos

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ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Did this finish yesterday. It is worthy of listing as an independent line, as the seam runs about the full length of the upper face. You can make it completely independent by climbing the face just 10' right of the start to East Dihedrals to the first Steorts belay ledge and belay off the blocks at left end. Fun roof to start the second. Consistent 5.6 done in 2 pitches. Would repeat. Jun 26, 2017
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
  5.7
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
  5.7
Ha! After reading about this route I looked at the topo for Jigs Up. This is the only way I have ever climbed Jigs Up as I thought it was the standard way. Next time I'll have to try the actual route. Apr 20, 2013
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
I'm pretty sure that today I climbed the starting pitch that John describes above. There is a funky tree at the bottom with a crooked trunk. The climb starts in a shallow dihedral with a crack in the left side that protects well. I can't remember exactly what I placed (MasterCam 0?), but I felt like I was able to adequately protect the roof with small gear and a backup. After pulling the roof (harder than 5.6), I headed right (easy climbing through the choss) until I reached the P2 belay for Stoert's. May 23, 2010
A distinct start to Die Another Day (a much better name than "Unknown") may be climbed between the Stoert's Ridge first pitch and the East Dihedrals first pitch. Begin about 10 feet left of the usual Stoert's Ridge start, just right of some trees growing out of the base of the crag. Climb up to the obvious break in the bulge above, maybe 15 feet left of the 5.6 crux bulge of Stoert's Ridge. Turn the bulge (5.7/5/8) and wander up to the "common belay" Allen mentions. Protects with small wires (incl. brass/steel) and cams, but could use some fixed gear to make it more suitable for novice leaders. There was chalk on it when my daughter and I climbed it on 7/22/07. Seems to me that any future guidebook author (or site administrator?) should roll this start and the 5.7+ finish Allen describes into Die Another Day and recognize it as its own 3-pitch line. Aug 3, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7
I'm thinkin' this is just a variation of Jig's Up. And, one I've done several times in years past.

Cheers. Jul 6, 2007