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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Oct. 2014
Page Views: 1,469 total, 45/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 12, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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30 Opinions

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Description

This may be one of the longest and better moderate finger cracks in BCC, with some tricky face climbing to get to it. Warm up by face climbing past the right-most of the pair of bolts that gives access to the ledge that is about 25 feet up. Two more bolts above the ledge protect face moves into the crack. Jam and layaway to crack's end and chains.

Location

Approach as for Social Engineering. Lower from chains.

Protection

Set of wires and cams to a red Camalot (no. 1); consider doubling up on cams in the thin fingers size.

Photos

Kirk Hilton
Murray, UT
 
Kirk Hilton   Murray, UT
 
Great route! The moves are more technical than hard but super fun to figure out. Mostly sustained moves for 80'. A few more face climbing moves after the bolts land you in the awesome crack (the real reason I came for it). The pro is typical BCC, so bring your stoppers! PS...Found a quickdraw up there on 7/4/16. Send me an email if it's yours. Cheers! Jul 6, 2016
One of the better 5.9 in BCC. Aug 15, 2015
Great new route addition, JS. Fun climbing, interesting moves, and steep fun. Nice work! Jul 6, 2015
Steven Amter  
 
A climb that is more technical than hard. Good pro, nice body positions, and a continuous theme. My second Wasatch climb and my first Wasatch lead. Nice! Jun 20, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
A great 5.9 that is long. On par with something like the diving board in terms of diffculty, but with better gear. Jun 9, 2015