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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ted Wilson, Milt Hokanson 1961
Page Views: 7,864 total, 48/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The beginning of the route is just left of the arete that borders the east and north face of the Dead Snag Arete. This is the same 1st pitch as Steort's Ridge. Climb the broken face and work the easy roof, then continue up the face to the ledges after about 120 feet. Skip the 1st ledge and hit the 2nd one which has a piton (It is bigger and easier to set up an anchor). Pitch 2 makes this climb as it works the finger/hand cracks that climb this face. The consistency of these cracks are incredible, and this is where the cams are nice to have. These cracks angle slightly leftward and are not the wide crack close to the arete. After about 180 feet of jamming, one gains a ledge within sight of the top. This ledge is small, but will suffice for a belay station, and it protects well. Sit down, take off your shoes and belay your second. Enjoy the view when he/she gets there.Finally, put on your shoes and work left off the ledge, along an easy section, avoiding the left-facing corner. This 20 foot finish ends the climb with 1 or 2 moves worthy of your rope.Walk to the south, where you can reach the anchors from East Dihedrals and do 3 1-rope rappels.

Again, I can not express the importance of placing your SLCD's carefully as there are 5 lost on this route.

Protection

Standard rack will suffice, a little heavy on SLCD's. Beware of the second pitch cracks as they gobble (and I mean gobble) up cams. The belay stations require trad gear as well. Belay station 1 has the only fixed gear (1 piton).

Photos

Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
Thought I was on Jig's Up, but apparently was not. Was on the wide crack just to the right of the hand cracks that make up the route. The wide crack was a little too big for my fist, but I have smaller hands than most guys. Two or three #3 cams could be used; I walked my only #3 once. Still enjoyed it. Went to the 3rd pitch of Steort's after the wide crack. Oct 14, 2015
Aaron Goldan  
 
Fun little 3 pitch. Almost lost a c3 due to overcammed placement by the lead, but managed to recover it. Chains are a little hard to find, but with a little looking we managed. Oct 5, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6
The second pitch is where it's at. Combine with the third pitch of Steort's Ridge for two quality pitches. Jul 4, 2011
Rockwood
West Jordan
 
Rockwood   West Jordan
 
Climbed this with a 50m rope and it was fine. Even went to the higher belay ledge though it was just long enough. Had to scramble to the further single rappel as the rope was not long enough for the 3. (I've done both now and the single rappel is so much easier.) I still had some injuries to the tops of my hands from a previous climb and I was able to get up just fine on face holds, and finger jams, and feet instead of the usual hand jams. The cracks are so sharp edged though you can lay back on them easy. It doesn't have the fancy finish of Steort's but the climbing is great, especially that little roof. Aug 25, 2009
Any of you guys know what the pitch just under the "o" on that Steort's photo is? I did it years ago when I didn't feel like waiting in line for the crowds on Steorts. There is a handcrack up to a little roof and then onto the pretty thin face (sparsely protected by small tcu's). Its got nice sunshine on it in this photo. I had no idea what it was or was rated and haven't seen such a good photo of it till now. It's obviously an established line that deserves more traffic than it gets. The handcrack is really fun and the face is too. Sep 30, 2005
As with any SLCD placement, prudent runnering will save you from losing your investment. Runner long, and you won't lose them. May 23, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.6
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.6
...also, Hexes work exceptionally well on this route. Apr 23, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.6
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.6
That 20' corner Nathan mentions on the third pitch: Do it! It's great! Go straight up to the tree that sits above Steort's. Getting past the corner/roof is just one move, and it is super fun!

Nathan's warnings about stuck SCLDs should be heeded; I have personally cleaned two abandoned cams on this route. :) One is a perfectly good small TCU, the other is a sticky quad about .5 Camalot size. Apr 23, 2005
Chris P)earson  
  5.6
This is an excellent climb that get 3 stars in my book but be warned the cracks love to eat cams we counted 5 that were lost and unrecoverable because of poor placement. Jul 15, 2004