Type: Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ted Wilson, Milt Hokanson 1961
Page Views: 8,915 total · 49/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The beginning of the route is just left of the arete that borders the east and north face of the Dead Snag Arete. This is the same 1st pitch as Steort's Ridge. Climb the broken face and work the easy roof, then continue up the face to the ledges after about 120 feet. Skip the 1st ledge and hit the 2nd one which has a piton (It is bigger and easier to set up an anchor). Pitch 2 makes this climb as it works the finger/hand cracks that climb this face. The consistency of these cracks are incredible, and this is where the cams are nice to have. These cracks angle slightly leftward and are not the wide crack close to the arete. After about 180 feet of jamming, one gains a ledge within sight of the top. This ledge is small, but will suffice for a belay station, and it protects well. Sit down, take off your shoes and belay your second. Enjoy the view when he/she gets there.Finally, put on your shoes and work left off the ledge, along an easy section, avoiding the left-facing corner. This 20 foot finish ends the climb with 1 or 2 moves worthy of your rope.Walk to the south, where you can reach the anchors from East Dihedrals and do 3 1-rope rappels.

Again, I can not express the importance of placing your SLCD's carefully as there are 5 lost on this route.

Protection

Standard rack will suffice, a little heavy on SLCD's. Beware of the second pitch cracks as they gobble (and I mean gobble) up cams. The belay stations require trad gear as well. Belay station 1 has the only fixed gear (1 piton).

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