Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,645 total · 31/month
Shared By: RKM on Oct 21, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

"I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone" -- Emilio Comici

Of all the expanse of rock and places to climb on the Dead Snag, this stretch contains some of the best rock, most improbable moves (that are pretty easy) and highest angle of climbing.

Two 100+ pitches with a stance belay in the middle. This might share space with Tigers Den?

I found this route while adventure soloing. Kept climbing higher and higher thinking it would get ugly and I could traverse off. Never got hard, never traversed off - so - I came back with my son and lead it as a 'sort of' real climb.

Location Suggest change

This fun route starts about 50' uphill from Steorts Ridge staging area. The beginning is a small vertical knife blade crack - just left of a big flake and block.

Step back from the start and draw an imaginary straight line up to the big diving board block on the top that overhangs the face (this block is about 20' left of the top out of Steorts).

Follow this exact line - not varying more than 5' to the left or the right.  If you wander, your off route.  Its a direct route, a directissama, a Comici route!

For sure you can climb all around this patch of rock, find better pro and find much easier climbing, but . . . the two blank shields of rock, mid height and two thirds height, are so clean and proud.

Protection Suggest change

Small wired stoppers (DMM peanuts work well).

Photos

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