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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,806 total · 33/month
Shared By: RKM on Oct 21, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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"I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone" -- Emilio Comici

Is this route contrived? Yes!

Is this route squeezed? Yes!

Is this route really, really fun? Yes!

Of all the expanse of rock and places to climb on the Dead Snag, this stretch contains some of the best rock, most improbable moves (that are pretty easy) and highest angle of climbing.

Two 100+ pitches with a stance belay in the middle. This might share space with Tigers Den?

I found this route while adventure soloing. Kept climbing higher and higher thinking it would get ugly and I could traverse off. Never got hard, never traversed off - so - I came back with my son and lead it as a 'sort of' real climb.


This fun route starts about 50' uphill from Steorts Ridge staging area. The beginning is a small vertical knife blade crack - just left of a big flake and block.

Step back from the start and draw an imaginary straight line up to the big diving board block on the top that overhangs the face (this block is about 20' left of the top out of Steorts).

Follow this exact line - not varying more than 5' to the left or the right.


Small wired stoppers (DMM peanuts work the best).


Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Never really figured out where Tiger's Den is...but...have climbed that slanting crack that comes in to the left of your Direttissima and crosses through it, looking for bolts/pins. Neat terrain and great rock! Well done! Oct 24, 2011
looks like fun, thanks for pointing this out. Oct 24, 2011
Excellent moderate route with surprisingly good protection. Cracks seem to appear out of nowhere. If you wander slightly, you can ease the rating down a bit. Apr 4, 2015
ddriver   SLC
Found the start of your route. There is a 15'-high block behind a tree. The right side is the vertical dihedral start for East Dihedrals, the left is the arcing chimney start to Tiger's Den. Your seam is uphill about 10' from the latter. Jun 26, 2017
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
The first 40 feet make you think you'll need micros the whole way. I found lots of placements for regular sized gear. Tricams were nice to have for some of the horizontals off to the side of the route. Standard rack worked well with a handful of micro nuts for the start. Really fun moderate dead snag route. Do this if you've done the other routes a million times. May 10, 2018

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