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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,570 total, 14/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This climb starts just around the corner to the right of Steort's Ridge and under the roof.

The climb follows the right side (north face)of Steorts Arete, climbing in the obvious dihedrals up faces and corners. In the Ruckman guidebook it shows 4 pitches, however, this depends on your rope length and comfort setting up belays. We climbed this in three. I don't recall each belay, however the first 3/4 of the climb is 5.5, with the last moves of the climb being the crux. You finish on the same ledge as Steort's Ridge.

The climb is a bit dirty and loose in spots, but it is worth climbing. There are definitely good sections of climbing. We ended up here because Steort's had a line, and it seemed like a good place to take a beginner. It was. If there are people on Steort's you will be climbing just to the right of them the whole way. It is a fun variation.

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos

Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This can be done in 2 long pitches with a 70m, probably better though to split into 3, it's very hard to hear belayer at the top. Jul 25, 2017
Mulch
SLC, Utah
 
Mulch   SLC, Utah
 
Entire climb protects well with just nuts and hexes. Rating: G Apr 23, 2017
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
The second pitch handcrack is possibly the best pitch on all of dead snag. Jun 17, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I have done the fun crack on the left wall, but we accessed it from steort's then traversed back onto steorts for the last pitch. Many fun variations on that arete! Mar 31, 2010
builttospill  
 
Not sure we did it the same way as pictured, but the moves from the first belay up and around the corner are stellar. Basically the climb is great except the first pitch, though the whole thing is not sustained at all. Still good fun. May 7, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.6
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.6
Bobby is absolutely right about the 5.8 hand and finger crack in the middle of the route. It is reminiscent of Goodro's Wall, only not as steep. I was unable to pass it up. Just after the first belay, there is a steep crack with two rusty pins that offer a more interesting and challenging alternative. Aug 5, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.5
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.5
There are some nice harder variations on this one. All are short, but some may be as hard as 5.8 or 5.9. One in particular is a beautiful hand and finger crack in the steep left face somewhere around the second pitch. Apr 23, 2005