Elevation: 8,889 ft
GPS: 40.607, -111.735 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,350 total · 187/month
Shared By: KPRTX on Sep 3, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

In the upper reaches of Stairs Gulch's West drainage. This area is usually only accessible from July to September. If you know the route expect a 2 hour approach. Snow is usually available until late August and a spring flows until the snow is gone below the bolder field. This approach is not for the faint of heart, nor is it enjoyable in the dark, rain, or snow. You will have this place to yourself on the busiest weekend of summer. For an alpine crag, it is clean and reasonably free from objective hazard. Raspberries can be found from mid July into mid August. The wall is an East aspect with morning sun and early afternoon shade. The routes listed here are all bolted with rap ring anchors. No trad gear is required. Bolt spacing is moderate and a stick clip is useful if you don't mind bringing it up. All the routes can be completed and rapped with a 65 meter rope, with some creativity and rope stretch, Watch the ends! A max of 12 bolts not counting the anchor. Camping in this area is a bit tricky but not impossible.

Getting There

Take the Stairs gulch trail starting just up from storm mountain area. If you don't know the way, I recommend staying left as much as possible, with one deviation. When the trail appears to terminate at the waterfall canyon section 4th class up to the easier terrain looking for cairns to help. Remember the route you take as it can be difficult on the way down. If it's harder than 4th class you're in the wrong place. Eventually you will make it to the split in the canyon. The center high rock precipice that appears to split the drainage is the start of the Stairs Cleaver route. Stay right at the fork using natural rock ramps to get around the cliffs and waterfalls. Again, remember your route or you'll be rapping down. Once clear of the rock faces you will enter the boulder field. This is often the last water source. Look for a spring lookers left coming out of a large rock. Continue up for what seems forever through boulders as the grade will start to reduce to a steep meadow. Look left(west) for the low spot in the ridge to find the start of the Cleaver route. Multiple large low angle slabs will appear on the west side of the drainage. The tallest, triangular shaped slap with a catwalk splitting it in the middle is Futility Wall. If you climb until you reach the house sized boulder turn 90 degrees to the right and walk tell you hit the slab. In the spring a good portion of the routes are covered in snow. 2 hours up, and 2 hours down.

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