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Routes in Beachball Crag

Across From The Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Breaking the Law T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Buddha Babies On the Beach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
His Feet Smell T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Masters of the Obvious T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mitch Buchannon T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outside, It's America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reach the Beach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Argyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rip's Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rubble Without A Cause T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SPF 25 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sneak-a-Peak Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sneak-a-Peak Arete Direct Start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Turtwig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown on Far Right TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Unknown on Left T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Was His Name-O T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waterfront T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

This short crag has a few nice moderate trad routes, a one minute approach, and is very shady. The crag is also very streamside and some of the routes start directly out of the water. This makes for a very good summer crag for toproping or trad climbing.

Getting There

Beachball Crag is on the right side of the road a mile and a half up the canyon. It is shortly after Dogwood Crag, and just before the roadside bouldering on the Wave Wall. There is a pullout on the right just past the Ledgemere Picnic Area, and you can cross the stream easily to get to the base of the routes. Walkoff is possible on both sides of the crag.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beachball Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY
William Kramer   Kemmerer, WY
Anchors still missing. Seems silly to me to remove them, I took my kids up there for some easy fun and gear placement lessons, didn't really plan on anchor building lessons, but made do with the webbing and cordalette we had. I really don't understand the bolt chopping war up here, seems like people just being bullies. Apr 5, 2015
Brian Taylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Brian Taylor   Salt Lake City, UT
Any status update on the state of those new anchors? I'm planning on heading up here on Friday and am wondering if I should plan on building my own anchors or not. Thanks! Aug 8, 2012
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Second applaud Jul 9, 2012
zoso  
I applaud your transparency. Jul 8, 2012
Chris DeSantis
Salt Lake City, UT
Chris DeSantis   Salt Lake City, UT
I was just up at Beachball crag and found at least three (3) top-rope anchors had been removed. Why someone would chop anchors at this crag makes absolutely no sense to me. Sure you can set trad-anchors in some places but not everyone has the gear or skill set to do that. I would think we would like to encourage climbing for all people at all levels without getting anyone injured. Besides it is all short, low grade stuff that real climbers wouldn’t bother with but it’s great for new folks or kids. I’ve personally free soloed all over the whole damn thing and have lots of trad gear, but, I have friends with small children that love the security of a top-rope and I can’t always be there to set anchors for them.

In any case, I plan to re-bolt the anchors. And while I’m usually a traditional old school hand driller, I’m bringing a Bosch for this project. If anyone can add some insight on why the anchors were removed or have any concerns or suggestions on the placement of new hangers please feel free to contact me.

Chris Jul 8, 2012
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
Has anyone been up here yet this year? I'd rather not make the drive if it's still snowed in. May 21, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
"...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."

That's a strong woman! Sep 29, 2009
A couple friends and I have recently been trying to clean this area up.
A few weeks ago we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree that had fallen on Spf 25. it was a nice feeling knowing that I was the first to climb the route in several years. I also climbed the fat crack to the right of spf 25 and think I got a posible f.a. It goes at 5.9. I would like to call it The Beached Whale if I did get the f.a. Sep 29, 2009
There was a new route on the Crag next to (left of) the 5.10 and 5.8, kinda up the gully. Can't remember the names of the climbs. Someone chopped the bolts on it. Why would they do this? It was a face, with no possible natural pro. I thought it was a fun albeit easy route. Also there were chains for the 5.10 that goes over the little roof, they are gone as well. What gives? I understand maybe the chains for the 5.10 weren't supposed to be there or something. But why chop all the bolts off of such a fun little route? It was a totally legitimate route, and the bolts were placed well, I don't understand. Does anyone know about this? Aug 12, 2004

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