Mic Fairchild > Comments

Oct 14, 2016 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tow… > Ruper (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c) 44 minutes: Ruper bridge 2 bridge. Photo: Steiny. ● BTW, this photo a substitute for the actual Ruper photo. Glad you like it anyway. View Comment
May 2, 2012 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tow… > Smoke & Mirrors (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a) The Pepperland ledge that holds the bases of Memory Lapse,Exploratory Surgery, and Wrong way Up). Climbers must move left or west- by the small pillars on the ridge to access Smoke & Mirrors. ● The two little towers at the West end of the ledge are the starts of Smoke & Mirrors (left) and There's a C… View Comment
Mar 20, 2012 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two Rosy Crucifixion 5.10b PG13 ● Talked to Rob C. who says he put in the bolts summer '88 for Rosy. Mystery solved. He… View Comment
Mar 16, 2012 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tow… > Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R) Layton Kor hanging out at the belay. ● Layton would regularly hip belay me when we climbed together. He really enjoyed this route. We did Rosy t… View Comment
Nov 15, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North > E Ironing Board Smooth 5.7 R ● This is a really fine climb but without much pro. The protection bolt on pitch 1 is so well camo'ed that i… View Comment
Oct 23, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Dreadnaught Primal Rib 5.5 R ● Although getting started is a bit of a thrunch, climbing on the ridge is great. I crashed uphill and did s… View Comment
Oct 23, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > Fiddlehead East Face/Fiddle Head 5.4 ● This is a fun and varied romp to a scenic summit. The first pitch may be tame, but the wide crack is prett… View Comment
Aug 29, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North > Thing The East Face 5.7 ● When doing the variation on the right side of the raised block, I only climbed the side for about twenty fe… View Comment
Aug 14, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North > Queen Anne's Head East Face/Queen Anne's Head 5.5 ● This is a good route, and it made a nice linkup with 1911 Gully. I could find no evidence of Nick's altern… View Comment
Aug 14, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron 1911 Gully 5.5 ● Did this after an ascent of QAH and found it enjoyable, if a bit awkward with a pack. Minimal thrashing fro… View Comment
Jul 22, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North > Hammerhead East Ridge Easy 5th ● This is a quality little route. Nice exposure and aesthetics for an easy climb. View Comment
Jul 22, 2011 Boulder > Flatirons > North Hammerhead ● From the sign at the top of Sentinel Pass, walk about 300 steps (+/-) down the trail. You should be by a r… View Comment
Aug 21, 2010 Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Achean Pronouncement East Face/Achean Pronouncement 5.7 ● Is it my imagination, or is the approach (more descent) to this a bushwhacker's paradise? I've been into S… View Comment
Sep 20, 2008 Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain North Buttress 5.7 ● While not necessarily recommended, I've done this route by starting at the very base of Pagoda, just above… View Comment
Sep 7, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part… > Pony Express (5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a) Leading second pitch around 1989. ● Ratty gym shorts were all the rage 25 years ago. I'm into man-pris now. View Comment
Sep 7, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Whale's Tail > Jack The Ripper (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X) Mic Fairchild solo on the Ripper, circa 1986. photo Pelander ● S- These are fear-sensitive glasses. The scarier it is, the darker they become. They were pretty dark a… View Comment
Sep 5, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - N Face Crossfire 5.11d ● Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but h… View Comment
Sep 4, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One Alice in Bucketland 5.8+ R ● I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I… View Comment
Sep 2, 2008 Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower E Face Stettner's Ledges 5.8 ● Hot damn, we (I soloed above a roped team of two) must've gotten lucky in '03. No loose rock, pretty obvio… View Comment
Mar 29, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One Memory Lapse 5.8 R ● Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed… View Comment
Mar 17, 2008 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Whale's Tail Jack The Ripper 5.9+ X ● The start of the climb, while only 5.8, is completely run-out and not entirely obvious. The crux may very… View Comment
Dec 13, 2007 Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress Bad Rad Duality 5.10d ● first ascent October 1985 by Mic and Bill. We eschewed the trend of putting "crack" into the route name, a… View Comment
Mar 13, 2006 Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Book > Pages Wall Area M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] 5.10d R ● Regarding M ountainneer's I nside C orner: It might be true that Outlander and Cheap Date are more aestheti… View Comment
Mar 13, 2006 Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Boulderado Suite 11 5.11c/d ● Conceived by Steve. Led by Steve and Mic with only trad gear - rather reachy and R-rated by 1980's standar… View Comment
Jul 14, 2004 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rotwand Rotwand Route 5.7 X ● Speed record (not advisable): 5 min 10 sec on 24 May 04. 14 July 2004 completed summit trip #150 on this… View Comment
Jun 6, 2004 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - N Face The Bastille Crack 5.7 ● Speed record climbing down 10m 42s (23 Oct 03). Speed record up remains 5min 33sec. View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes Kloeberdeath/Candallegro 5.13b ● It has died down, but there was a certain amount of controversy surrounding this route at the time it was p… View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - W Face Hair City 5.9+ R ● One of my top 10 in Eldo, probably above W Buttress, because of its clean line. A wonderful lead, and a fab… View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > E Cactus Cliff Far Ri… Relampago 5.10 ● A little different from the usual Shelf lines in that it moves around a corner (!), so you need a long slin… View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > E Cactus Cliff Far Ri… Great Expectations 5.10d ● A fun and sustained route everyone should consider. As with most Cactus climbs, ratings may be a little so… View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > E Cactus Cliff Far Ri… White Punks on Pockets 5.9 ● A nice little route for the less-experienced leader. There were a couple moves that asked you to pay attent… View Comment
Nov 3, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One Body Tremors 5.8 PG13 ● in the 70's, this climb was on my hit list of R-rated (now termed 'serious') runout challenges to which i c… View Comment
Nov 1, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One Ruper 5.8+ ● What can you say about going up that hasn't been beaten to death? This is one of the great climbs of Eldo,… View Comment
Oct 28, 2003 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > E Cactus Cliff Far Ri… Funkdemental 5.11a ● One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the c… View Comment
Oct 24, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rotwand Rotwand Route 5.7 X ● Enviro considerations: the Artesian aquifier is just below this rock. be considerate and deposit human wa… View Comment
Oct 20, 2003 Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One Smoke & Mirrors 5.10a ● From the stance after doing the crux (the third bolt), it is possible to follow the line more directly stra… View Comment

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Mic Fairchild > Comments

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