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Routes in Fiddlehead

A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,002 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Yet another east face scrambling route....

Finding the start can be a little difficult. After finding Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon, bushwack up the gully to the east of the rock. The bottom of the rock is broken and overgrown. Begin just to the right of a very obvious and large, left-facing dihedral where the rock becomes more defined and better quality. There will be some trees visible a coupel hundred feet up the face.

Work your way up to the trees. Find a very obvious widish crack that heads up and right from near the rightmost tree. Foot traverse the crack, and at the end cross the obvious gully. Climb the wall above to another ledge. The summit block will be obvious above and to the right of you. Climb the face about 10-20 feet to the left of the summit block (crux). At the top you will be able to step to the summit.

It is 2 single rope raps down the west face to the ground.


Flatiron SR.


Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
The top and mid anchor are now bolted. You can get down with a 70m or two raps with a shorter cord.... Oct 27, 2017
Page Weil
Page Weil  
You can reach the ground from the summit with a single 70m rope doubled over. Aug 29, 2015
It's possible to downclimb the west face of this in lieu of the rappels, but it's a little weird because doing so makes the downclimb the definite crux of the scramble. Pretty vertical rock on the west face, but there are solid holds the whole way, felt about 5.4-5.6ish to me? Sets you up nicely for a scramble of Onoclea, too. Plus, then you don't have to trust that second threaded rap anchor, which seems a little specious to me (the tat is wrapped around an approximately arm-thick rib of rock). Dec 3, 2014
Mic Fairchild
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
This is a fun and varied romp to a scenic summit. The first pitch may be tame, but the wide crack is pretty cool, and the two pitches above have some nice sequences. I think Roach has included this one as a classic with good reason. The Pellaea and Onoclea await just West of the descent rapp. Oct 23, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Although Roach calls this a classic, the only good pitch was the last one. The first 400 feet of the route had some questionable rock on it. The last crux pitch has better pro than it seems from below. To spice it up a little bit, climb the last pitch right on the ridge line. Jan 24, 2002