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East Face/Fiddle Head
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.2 from 24
votes
Routes in Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chains of Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face/Fiddle Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fertile Crescent. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Irish Spring T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Northwest Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sol Asylum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stemadilemma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing Samarsa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wall of Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,361 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Yet another east face scrambling route....
Finding the start can be a little difficult. After finding Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon, bushwack up the gully to the east of the rock. The bottom of the rock is broken and overgrown. Begin just to the right of a very obvious and large, left-facing dihedral where the rock becomes more defined and better quality. There will be some trees visible a coupel hundred feet up the face.
Work your way up to the trees. Find a very obvious widish crack that heads up and right from near the rightmost tree. Foot traverse the crack, and at the end cross the obvious gully. Climb the wall above to another ledge. The summit block will be obvious above and to the right of you. Climb the face about 10-20 feet to the left of the summit block (crux). At the top you will be able to step to the summit.
It is 2 single rope raps down the west face to the ground.
Finding the start can be a little difficult. After finding Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon, bushwack up the gully to the east of the rock. The bottom of the rock is broken and overgrown. Begin just to the right of a very obvious and large, left-facing dihedral where the rock becomes more defined and better quality. There will be some trees visible a coupel hundred feet up the face.
Work your way up to the trees. Find a very obvious widish crack that heads up and right from near the rightmost tree. Foot traverse the crack, and at the end cross the obvious gully. Climb the wall above to another ledge. The summit block will be obvious above and to the right of you. Climb the face about 10-20 feet to the left of the summit block (crux). At the top you will be able to step to the summit.
It is 2 single rope raps down the west face to the ground.
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