Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Joel Schiavone and Pat Healy, 1980
Page Views: 2,353 total · 12/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

To approach, follow the faint trail uphill, starting a bit past the huge Superfresh boulder, and head up 50 yards or so and then across the talus to the base of the big, right-facing dihedral. Castles Made of Sand is the bolted line on the smooth slab just right of this corner.

The climb begins by firing up through the bouldery, overhanging crack at the base of the route (this is the same start shared by Clarence and Castles). This route is rated 5.9 in the Rossiter guide, but this powerful start is solid 5.10 and therefore the route really deserves a 5.10 rating. Continue up the low angle V-slot crack and then split off right at the first roof. Follow this beautiful 5.9 corner system up the steep wall, go right at the final roof, and belay out on the arete at the right edge of the roof. Thoughful and interesting moves, a little bit runout in places off of small nuts or RPs, very fun climbing overall!

To descend, you can either: (1) 3rd class scramble to the northeast, heading down to the gully between Fiddlehead and the Goose, then down to the bottom of Fiddlehead and back up to the base of the climb, or (2) continue up along the east side of the Fiddlehead to the summit, and rap off the west face. Looks like a pitch or two of easy 5th class climbing. A bolted anchor at the top of the route to allow direct rappeling back to the base would be nice, and would also reduce the chances of people impacting vegetation if/when walking off to the north, but doesn't exist at this time.

Protection

Standard rack including RPs, nuts, and cams to #3 Friend. Some of the pieces you use may be small RPs and therefore a Screamer or two may be useful. Smaller offset Aliens may also be helpful in reducing the runout factor in spots. A cleaning tool for the leader could be considered as the lower 30 feet of the crack has some dirt and growth.

Photos